Should the gap transition from the roof box to the masonry be closed or not?

I do not understand the answers! Now it is unplastered and you have a gap. After plastering, there will be no gap.

On the brick comes the base plaster that has a certain thickness and the finish plaster. Therefore, I wonder why you think there would still be a usable gap?

Point 2: Why haven't you already asked the plasterers after 5 days?

After plastering, the gap is no longer there. I would discuss the point with the rail with the plasterer. Perhaps it would be an idea to apply the rough plaster continuously (covering the gap and protecting the stones), then attach the rail directly onto the rough plaster and finally apply the fine plaster. The fine plaster is then recessed at the rail. So a combination between Var A & B. But please discuss this with the plasterer. Maybe he has another idea regarding the lighting.

I am aware that the gap would no longer be there after plastering. I had already spoken with the plasterer. He suggested option 2 to me. I should seal the brick in the upper area with tile adhesive, then attach the strip for the lighting, which also serves as a plaster guide. He will plaster against it, I will then insert my lighting from above, and that’s that.

My intention was to get another opinion. As far as I can judge, my plasterer does very good work and knows what he’s doing. But a second opinion never hurts, especially when it comes to special cases that could potentially cause damage to the house.

That’s actually the reason why I wanted to know exactly what happens to the gap at the top with his proposed option 2. Because it would no longer be closed off by the plaster. And I just don’t know whether it’s important for ventilation or maybe shouldn’t exist at all.

The combination between 1 & 2 that you mentioned wouldn’t help me much, I think. Just for the 2mm overlap of the strip, I don’t need to go through the effort of attaching the strips beforehand, having him plaster against them, and then possibly having to clean the strips afterwards.

I also recommend the variant of the putzer. Close gaps beforehand with cement plaster, applying a smooth coat in the width of the rail (apply very thinly).

Then attach the rail so that the putzer can plaster cleanly against it.

According to DIN, the roof structure can be either ventilated or sealed. It just has to be consistent. So, if the roofers have installed the underlay membrane ventilated at the ridge area (i.e., only overlapped, not glued), then usually an opening is left at the bottom of the eaves box by means of a grille to allow ventilation from bottom to top between the rafters.

I am in favor of completely sealing it. If every gap is left open, spiders and pests will settle in and dirty the entire facade up there. The vapor permeability of the underlay membrane is sufficient for an unused attic.

Thank you for your answers and I was wondering a few days ago why our neighbors have such a grid there and we don’t. So we don’t have a ventilation grille, but instead such Braas ventilation elements in the underlay membrane in the middle of the roof surface. So that means to me that our roof is sufficiently ventilated so that I can seal the gap? So I would: - Mix cement plaster, press it into this gap and smooth it off (clean reflection surface) and if necessary paint it - Apply a thin layer of plaster on the masonry - Glue an aluminum strip with 2-component adhesive or mounting adhesive onto the thin plaster strip - Have it plastered over by the plasterer - Insert my lighting Be happy Any objections?