Sealing of my clinker facade

Hello everyone,

over the weekend, the roofer carried out the sealing of the floor-to-ceiling elements, it was done afterwards, I wasn’t made aware of it at the time, then I took another roofer, he seemed competent to me, in my opinion his work looks very clean, I had the feeling that he got the best out of it, his steps: 1) cleaned with a solution 2) sanded the surface of the windows 3) liquid plastic 4) embedded fleece 5) another coat 6) he had to cut out the styrofoam on the side of the windows, he will close that again in the next few days

The photo attached is of the front door

At the same time, the garden landscaper also carried out his work, it was agreed that he would only set the curbstones at first, and he also wanted to apply a thick coating. His helper then started and I saw no thick coating and the first curbstones were set... when I then asked about the thick coating, he was confused, as he said he was told that he should only set the curbstones.

I demanded a conversation with the boss, he told me on the phone that the thick coating would be applied later, which I found illogical. Afterwards, his worker said it was not a problem and that he would still get to the spot.

Later the boss came and I brought it up again and said that I insist on it, otherwise I am not satisfied, he promised me and said that as a former master mason he knows such things and that in the end I can still say what I don’t like. I told him that such things should be discussed beforehand, otherwise what’s the point of the work. He then told me that everything will be carried out as agreed. Upon inquiry, he then told me that the sequence was changed because they are currently short of people due to vacation and therefore the curbstones are/would be set first. Only a few have been set so far.

What do you think about this, can the thick coating still be well applied after the curbstones are set? And how exactly should it be sealed? (From what I understand so far, the connection from the base slab over the waterproof membrane is important, then over the clinker)

He also told me that I don’t need the finishing strip for the dimpled membrane at all, only possibly for a plaster facade, is that correct?

In the end I looked suspicious and he told me: “don’t be so suspicious, everything will be fine.”

Meanwhile, I am thinking about applying the thick coating myself.

Thanks

Ps: I have not paid a cent yet.

Hehe, don’t pay attention to the spelling mistakes (e.g. Vlies), my phone :)

Hi,

I need to sort this out first:

1) The roofer seals the window connection.
The door connection is certainly flush with the ground? So no offset inside and outside?

2) Question: Is there a waterproofing on the rear masonry that was installed before the clinker was applied? And if yes, where does it run?
3) The landscape gardener seals the clinker facade against the backfilled soil? With what material?
But yes, he can still get to it afterwards. It's just more effort.
4) How is the connection to the wall executed? Gravel strip?

If you could briefly explain this to me again, I might be able to say something better about it.

Is the door connection definitely flush? So without offset inside and outside?

Sorry, I don’t quite understand, maybe I’m wrong, but maybe you can make sense of the photo (the roofer is coming tomorrow and will close the gaps with foaming sealant), then I wanted to apply thick coating over the styrofoam.

Behind the clinker brick is a waterproofing membrane, which starts at the base and goes over the entire ground floor. Of course, the perimeter insulation is also present behind the clinker.

Later, a gravel strip is planned there, at the floor-to-ceiling elements I want to have cables laid, where channels can be connected later.

I will probably apply the thick coating myself, twice, and have the dimple membrane rotated, so that the sealing is not pressed in by the dimples.

Okay,

Ground level means that you can go outside from your house without a step or a threshold. So, pavement height = tile height (or other covering).

So the liquid plastic is well executed. In the second picture, I think I can recognize that he also applied the liquid plastic over the bitumen membrane underneath. On the side, he probably had to cut away the Styrodur so that he could also connect it on the side.

These are the important points and were not recognizable in the first pictures. For a ground-level transition to the door, it is important that the liquid plastic is also applied higher on the sides than the covering height; however, based on the pictures, I can't say whether this was done. I rather think not.

If the sealing is well done and connected in all areas, the sealing in front of the clinker is only a moisture protection for the clinker and not a proper seal, so you can ease your concern a bit.

I would recommend using a plastic-modified mineral sealing slurry instead of a bituminous thick coating; then you won't have the problem of the bitumen slipping off with heat exposure.

In my opinion, you don't need to protect the dimpled membrane; the landscape gardener is right about that. But I am also not aware that a dimpled membrane needs to be protected (connection strip) with a plaster facade. Maybe sealing and dimpled membrane are confused here.

I wanted to treat the sides with thick coating, or does [Styropor FlK] also need to be applied there?

Everyone really says something different, just like with the dimpled membrane, no matter which side, it's wrong, but for me it has no sealing function, only mechanical protection, and if the thick coating comes onto the brick, I will have the dimples facing outward so that the sealing is not damaged.

Which sealing slurry do you recommend? (i.e. designation)

Ignore the bulge in the photo, it comes from the welding membrane, my previous roofer did it.