Ready-made basement - Filling corners

  • Erstellt am 2021-11-24 08:05:46

Hausner

2021-11-24 20:29:44
  • #1
Yes, the foam goes from bottom to top. But not from inside to outside. However, that was not my question at all. My question(s) were about filling the corners.
 

Tolentino

2021-11-24 23:01:51
  • #2
Well, you ask how to best repaint a suitcase and someone points out that there might be a sharp bomb inside... Saying then that this was not the question seems at least somewhat autistic.
 

Hausner

2021-11-25 04:47:37
  • #3
OK, and what doesn't fit with the foam now? Ultimately, the joints had to be sealed for concreting, right? *off topic* the basement is now being sealed with epoxy resin.
 

Tolentino

2021-11-25 08:11:51
  • #4
I suppose if it is not continuous from the outside to the inside, it is not that bad, but we better wait for the expert ...
 

face26

2021-11-25 08:34:58
  • #5
It is a basement with precast elements. In other words, after installing them, the inside is filled with concrete. The joint seams must of course be sealed, otherwise the concrete would leak out there. There are different systems for this, to my knowledge. But I am not an expert either. The foam of course does not go from outside to inside. And I believe it is not standard PU foam either. In our precast element basement, the corners were also foamed with something. Inside, we didn’t do anything at all in the utility basements. Only the walls were painted white. But no foam really pushed out there either. In the two "residential-purpose rooms," the plasterer/drywaller did it, I just quickly checked but didn’t find any pictures of the room during the plastering work. But I strongly assume that corner profiles were incorporated there.
 

Jann St

2021-11-26 09:24:11
  • #6
Hi,

I will answer the question anyway:

It is not possible to say whether it is bad or not (that is the problem with foam). Of course, the joints must be sealed so that the concrete does not leak out, but this must be done using formwork that is flush with the exterior, so that the concrete cross-section meets the minimum dimension everywhere. The problem with foam (and therefore regardless of the type) is that you cannot control how far the foam penetrates into the interior of the component. This reduces, uncontrollably, the component thickness of a waterproof concrete component at its most critical point – the joint. As it looks here, they have at least done the foaming quite neatly, so one can initially assume that nothing will happen.

However, there is of course a reason why the waterproof concrete guideline has been significantly tightened, especially with regard to waterproof concrete construction using element walls, and is still hotly debated.

In my opinion, this is simply not a professionally correct execution, which is why I am pointing it out. The answer that it has often been done this way does not change that.

If I always drive my car at 80 where 50 is allowed and no one stops me, I may not get into trouble, but that does not suddenly make it correct.

But to finally respond to your question:

1. The foam must be removed
2. I would avoid placing profiles at the inner corners as much as possible, but rather seal them, since we expect annual movement here that leads to cracks. With sealing, you can best "touch it up" again.
3. At the inner external corner, I would like to see how the elements come together there to assess where the crack is most likely to occur.

Good luck going forward
 

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