Basement made of high perforated bricks or concrete?

Our basement was part of the contract. I don't know which manufacturer it was. We laid the empty conduits ourselves. The shell builder told us the date when the ceiling would be installed, then you have a couple of days to get the job done. However, we had to hurry a lot because the concrete had to be poured the next day.

Well

So, I don't want to offend anyone, but half of what is written here is incorrect.
Regarding the floor, well, there are more pros and cons, you can't list them all.
If you build something for eternity, then do it properly, otherwise, you will have to invest a lot of money later. So I suggest concrete C20/25.
1. Foundation C20/25 0-32 grain size, no waterproofing but exterior component.
2. Floor slab also C20/25 0-16 grain size waterproof with joint tape (horizontal) e.g. pentaplex or others.
3. Concrete wall shells and no precast parts, as too many joints arise which are weak points for water, also C20/25 0-16 grain size.
4. Ceiling can be precast slabs and then concreted with in-situ concrete.
I have to say, regarding concrete type and consistency, the structural engineer must decide. It also depends on the exposure class, mechanical or natural weather influences, soil type and condition,
and the cables can be laid beforehand, i.e. empty conduits in the wall or ceiling.
If the basement wall is not concreted in one go, a joint tape must be installed (vertical).
5. Insulate best: clean properly and create a fillet at the base, then apply a bitumen primer, let it dry, and then apply a thick coating of about 3 mm, let it dry for 2-3 days, and 80 mm Styrodur insulation is easily enough because you can never get the thermal transmittance coefficient down to zero, not even if you use 2-meter-thick insulation.
6. Protection for the insulation: best to use a dimpled sheet so that stones do not damage the insulation.
7. Windows are no problem, you can make a large light well, available in many sizes.
8. Drainage is important, best to wrap the floor slab with fleece, then put 20 cm of rolled gravel on it and lay the drainage and inspection boxes, then again 20 cm of rolled gravel and fleece on top so that dirt does not mix with the gravel and cannot penetrate the drainage.
9. Then backfill and compact very well, preferably every 30-50 cm with a jumping rammer or vibrating plate.

But I have to say it costs more, but it is a very good solution if you want.

Best regards, BumbleBee
Then I will list pros and cons compared to concrete and stone, no problem.

pro & contra Masonry or Concrete Cellar

I have to say it costs more but it is a very good solution if you want I will list pro and cons compared to concrete and stone is no problem

Hello BumbleBee,

thank you for your opinion regarding the concrete cellar. It would be very interesting to hear which pros and cons you have.

hello people, thanks for the tips! I want to build soon as well and have been dealing with similar things, and I'm very afraid that something might go wrong with the basement. You have heard quite a few scary stories about that... have a nice [Pfingstmontag]

So I have now read up a bit more and have the information that basement construction in an energy-efficient house must be done quite differently than in a standard house. Is that correct and if so, what exactly needs to be considered? Does this involve higher costs? How many percent more?

Thank you in advance!

Which basement?

So I have read a bit more and now have the information that basement construction for an energy-efficient house has to be done quite differently than for a standard house. Is that correct and if so, what exactly needs to be considered? Are there higher costs involved? How many percent more?

Thanks in advance!

Hello Bambus,

to answer your question correctly, you should know which efficiency class you want to achieve with your house/basement. As you surely know, there are different classes such as 85, 70, 50, or the so-called passive house. The better the efficiency class, the better the conditions with the KfW. The lower the heating energy demand, the more expensive the structural measures can become!

Also not insignificant is the issue of basement usage. What do you want to do with your basement later? Should it be planned as a utility or living basement? Are you possibly intending an apartment with a separate entrance (e.g., outside stairs)? Should corresponding thermal insulation windows with triple glazing and roller shutter boxes be installed instead of regular basement windows and light wells?

At the same time, you should also consider the basement height, electrical and water installations. Do you perhaps need a lifting station? What is your property like? Slope or flat terrain? What is the soil composition and groundwater level?

As already mentioned, depending on the usage and/or planning degree, building a basement costs more or less. Unfortunately, your question is too general to provide a correct answer.