We have vinyl in wood look with a very rough surface in every room except the bathrooms and the utility room.
Which vinyl have you installed? We definitely want wood look too - no matter if tiles or vinyl.
edit: Much more important for efficiency is that your heat pump can modulate down FAR ENOUGH! Don’t let yourself be sold a big heat pump and then it switches on and off all the time!
I understood that - but it should be irrelevant whether it’s the 35/6 or 55/6, right? Or am I reading the data wrong?
Bonding is always direct. Although that also has consequences for impact sound. In your buildup you then have BP/ceiling, insulation and then underfloor heating in the screed. And if people walk barefoot on warm floors, you hear it. The culprit is the heel strike you’re used to from wearing shoes. With ball-of-foot walking you don’t hear anything, and neither with slippers.
That’s interesting - I would have bet that it’s louder with slippers than barefoot. Does it make a difference for impact sound if you choose tiles or vinyl?
First of all: what is your goal? Because that’s not quite clear to me. You have to distinguish the theoretical calculations from the real conditions here.
My goal is to size the heating so that all rooms get warm enough and at the same time do not consume unnecessary electricity. Since I have read everywhere on the net that 35°C leads to higher electricity consumption and is no longer up to date, that made me suspicious.
The 35°C flow temperature is normal because it refers to the NAT. The calculations say that at NAT your house must also be warm. So your heating must manage a flow temperature of 35°C. In real life this only occurs for 2 days every 5 years. Most of the time your flow temperature oscillates between 26 and 30°C, rarely above.
Thank you very much for the explanation. But when you read here and also in other threads about supply temperature of 30 degrees, they always refer to the NAT, right? And if the supply temperature at NAT is lower, isn’t the supply temperature at, for example, 2 degrees outside temperature also automatically lower?
Aside from that, I find Vaillant rather simple and suboptimal in terms of installed components and options anyway. I praise Asian manufacturers like Pana, Samsung, LG, Hitachi who usually install reasonable pumps directly, for example. Their entry-level sizes run at well over 1,000 l/h, gladly also up to 2,000 l/h. My small Pana manages max. 2,100 l/h - which I of course never need.
Well, we’re tied to Vaillant. That is specified by the provider. Surely they are not the best but I also don’t think they are the worst. At least we have some acquaintances who are quite satisfied with their Vaillant. If the heat pump ever breaks, can we choose any other manufacturer as a replacement? Or is it a case of once Vaillant, always Vaillant?
Yes, well I have the 75/6 and I would not recommend it, see our arotherm thread...
The thread has very, very many pages ;). Could you please briefly summarize why you would not recommend it?