Looking for garden watering tips

Hi Rick2018,

Thank you for your detailed response.

When the kids are in bed I need to measure and draw properly again.

What exactly do you mean by this:


In addition to the main/distribution line, you need a control line. The number of wires is the number of valves + 1.
There are solenoid valves inside these boxes. Each solenoid valve is responsible for one circuit.


A power line, right?

That wouldn't be a problem at first, since we have electricity at the corner where we have the water.

The entire garden is evenly exposed to the sun.

Should I still make a circuit for each sprinkler?

I'll leave out drip irrigation for now, since we didn't water the shrubs in the old house either. Instead, there will be water sockets there.

So that would be about 3 sprinklers and 2 water sockets, so 5 circuits?

Best regards
Birgit

Hello Bibi,

the control line is not a "power line". You need the control line from the distribution box to the place where the irrigation controller is. Please put the control line in a protective conduit.
The easiest solution is an irrigation timer (available from simple to app-controlled...). This requires a power outlet. The control line is connected to the timer. Then, through its transformer, the valves are opened via the control line.

You don't need one zone per sprinkler. Instead, you put as many sprinklers into one zone as until about 90% of the maximum flow of your water line is reached.
As I described above, distribute the sprinklers and then add up the flow rates.
You need significantly more than 3 sprinklers. They have to overlap their watering. But probably 2-3 zones for the sprinklers will be sufficient.

The water spigots could each be operated with one zone or all with one. Usually, you only use one at a time. And even if it should be two at once, it won't cause problems because less water comes out of the hose.
With the sprinklers, it would cause major problems if there were too much pressure and flow (they won't rise, lower range...).
If there is not one spigot in front of the house and one in the back, I would operate with one zone. Saves you valves.

One more question.

I searched for Hunter and irrigation, and I came across a homepage that sells pre-configured sets.

One set fits exactly with my plan.

It is for an L-shaped lawn.

With 2 water sockets, it would be as follows:

But there is no distribution box entered there at all.

Do I need it separately?

The distribution box controls which zone gets water, right?

What makes me wonder now is why I need so many sprinklers, while in my old, much larger garden I only needed one lawn sprinkler?

This is probably from a shop. For example, DVS-Irrigation. Put it together yourself as appropriate. The control unit and distribution box are also missing in your example. So, housing PRS40. Sprinkler heads Rotator 2000 (presumably). It can only be defined once you have drawn the whole thing into your plan. Try searching on Google for Hunter Rotator datasheet. There you can see the different heads and flow rates. The PRS40 housings always reduce the pressure to 2.8 bar so that it is always constant.

In your example, it says that it has to be divided into two circles. You can always reconnect everything by hand, but it doesn't make sense.

With a sprinkler, you don't have proper coverage and the distribution is not homogeneous either. Theoretically, you can also use a watering can. Or a sprinkler and move it every half hour.

The rotors I mentioned from Hunter (comparable ones are also available from Rainbird) are water-saving, provide homogeneous coverage, and are wind-resistant... With the mentioned PRS40 housing, you can combine all heads and always have the same precipitation per m2 regardless of which head you use.

An automatic irrigation system should be "automatic," as the name suggests. So better do it "right" from the start. Whether you bury 3 or 6 sprinklers doesn't make much difference.