Looking for garden watering tips

Good morning... I think Gardena really offers great value for money. We installed it at our place and are absolutely satisfied.

Which components do you have?

I’m also currently considering Gardena, as it’s the easiest to understand there.

Since

From the sketch it looks like a simple task.
Better consider Hunter and Rainbird. Gardena is overpriced for what they offer and not really durable either.
Take a look at this thread. If you have questions, just ask.
https://www.hausbau-forum.de/threads/Leerrohre-auf-Grundstück-Ideen-noch-ist-es-nicht-zu-spät.30853/page-3

Thanks for the link, I'll take a look right away.

Lechuza looks like an interesting system. Unfortunately, I find it less appealing visually than a simple terra cotta pot or something nicely glazed.

Maybe there are inserts for regular pots. Although terracotta or clay soaks up water.

There are also other brands with such a system.

You lay the cables directly in the ground. Not in empty conduits.

And what if something is broken?

Then I have to dig everything up again.

How do I do the emptying, I read in another topic about using compressed air, how exactly do I do that?

How deep do the pipes need to be for frost protection? And how do I then drain the water sockets and the sprinklers? The supply line then goes up a bit out of the frost-free zone.

Sorry for the stupid questions.

Hello Bibi80, there are no stupid questions. Starting from the beginning: You have a faucet or connect to your cistern. You lead this main/distribution line to the distribution/valve boxes. In your case, one will be enough. In addition to the main/distribution line, you need a control line. The number of cores is the number of valves + 1. These boxes contain solenoid valves. Each solenoid valve is responsible for one zone. How big the zones are depends on your maximum flow per hour, pipe length and cross-section, and sprinklers/drip lines. The sprinklers usually consist of a housing and a head. From these valves in the box, the zone goes to the sprinklers, drip irrigation/root irrigation. You then run each zone sequentially via irrigation control. In the distribution box, you install (or buy the whole thing ready-made) a compressed air connection. In autumn, you connect a compressor there and close the faucet. Then you run the irrigation program or select the zones manually. This causes the sprinklers to pop up due to the compressed air and be blown dry. For watering cans, you simply put your open garden hose on. Just take your property plan and, for example, the datasheet from Hunter Rotators. You start in one corner. The MP2000 heads are probably the right ones for you. Subtract a little from the maximum specified range. Assume about 5 meters. The sprinklers should overlap each other. So one sprinkler every 5 meters. I like to use the Hunter PRS40 housing (with pressure reducer). I have already explained the advantages in the other thread. Then you enter everything into a list. The corresponding flow rates per hour are on the datasheet. Now you can form zones. That is, max. 90% of your maximum flow rate per hour per zone. Zones should also make sense, as already mentioned. So areas in shade/sun/plant types etc. For hedges and bushes, you use dripline. The pipes are (in your case PE DN25 is sensible) for underground installation. If something breaks, it is the sprinkler heads or housings. These can be replaced without major excavation work. The pipe itself usually only breaks during excavator work or with a trench milling machine. Normally, even using a spade doesn’t cause damage. Regarding laying in pipes: The PE pipes are not like a garden hose. It's best to heat them with a hairdryer or lay them in the sun to make them bendable. So very rigid and stable. If you want to pull this into an empty conduit, you need a huge pipe. Otherwise, it won't work. Also, you have to get to every sprinkler... Forget about frost-free installation. For this you have to go deep down, proper base, slope, self-watering housings with base...