Inside the house 10° warmer than outside - how does that happen?

  • Erstellt am 2021-06-05 17:44:46

Mycraft

2021-06-06 15:20:41
  • #1


you have summarized it well. Both politics and construction companies (and also the clients) are primarily interested in energy consumption during the heating season and everything is oriented towards that.

Summer is treated as an afterthought. Often you only read that summer thermal protection should be considered. But hardly anything is done, if at all. Because there is the wrong assumption that "the insulation will take care of it."

Have you recently (or even in the last 10-15 years) driven or walked through new housing developments? You can see what is going wrong there. Hardly any house has shading measures, trees have not yet grown, but almost every house has massive glass facing south... the huts are actually greenhouses.
 

DaSch17

2021-06-06 16:27:01
  • #2


What do you consider to be sensible shading measures?

In my opinion, at least venetian blinds on the ground floor south and west, plus a roof overhang of at least 1m for the upper floor.



Outside 20 degrees and inside 30 degrees? How about manually ventilating for half an hour? I think even in a new building it should be possible to open all windows, right? ;)
 

Mycraft

2021-06-06 16:45:50
  • #3
Meaningful measures are, as you yourself write... shops of various kinds, external blinds, roof overhangs, trees, hedges, awnings, etc.

What works best here and there can of course only be determined explicitly on site.
 

Schimi1791

2021-06-06 16:51:37
  • #4


Why so ‘complicated’? :D In my opinion, no good insulation is needed. Just drive a car in the sunshine without air conditioning or just sit inside. Greenhouse effect?
 

kati1337

2021-06-06 17:08:32
  • #5

We have pets and a child at a dangerous age, I’m a bit scared. :D Maybe store it in the attic. But it gets melting temperatures there in summer.

We have the THZ 504, which is apparently identical to the 504 from Stiebel Eltron. Unfortunately, I don’t know whether there is a bypass installed, I can try to look it up and see if I can make sense of the technical terms. In the menu, there are settings for both "summer cassette" and "bypass." One of these can’t make sense at the same time, right?

Not necessarily "no name," but I think SE is only allowed to be installed by certain companies or something like that. Anyway, during our commissioning the technician from SE was also at our house, and when we asked him if the device was comparable to the SE 504, he said something like, “Comparable? It’s exactly the same, just a different label.”

What do you mean by that? I am currently experimenting to achieve a tolerable temperature level during the day. If I don’t change anything on the system, the indoor temperature will not change either as long as the heat exchanger is off — "no heat lost." I have sent a message to our plumber with this question.

Thank you. We will try shading in the coming days and try to get used to it.
Not letting hot air in presumably means turning off the ventilation during the day in summer.
At the moment, that can’t really be our problem, since it’s still cooler outside than I want it inside. Our problem is that it’s 20° outside, but 28° inside.
What I can’t really explain is where the warm air keeps coming from. Yesterday we turned on the AC for the first time — which of course works, but we had planned to use the AC in summer, not from the first ray of sunshine. When we went to bed yesterday, it was quite bearable. But this morning, the bedroom was already boiling hot again. Where is it coming from? Are we radiating so much heat? In winter, that was definitely not a problem. The sun didn’t shine yesterday or today the whole day. WHERE is the heat coming from again? O.o

We didn’t consider that back then — I would build it differently today.

The house is in northern Germany. It’s cool and rainy outside. It’s a KFW55 standard house. That’s why I’m wondering if something is off here / where the heat is coming from.

That’s true. This was never really discussed with the construction company beforehand either. I’m glad my husband insisted on having an AC. But airtightness is really only talked about for winter. In summer, you imagine it like: “I just don’t let warm air in, and it stays cool inside” — nope, that doesn’t work.

Which of the settings would you choose? I can select between “Off,” “Supply air,” “Exhaust air,” “Bypass,” and “Summer cassette.”

Possible, yes, desirable, no. :D
To open all windows, I’d first have to get insect protection. I only have that partially. But I’d rather have heat inside than bugs.
Okay, strictly speaking, I don’t want either inside, but bugs are worse.
I think we really need to tackle that more. But there must be a way to get rid of the ventilation’s heat recovery in summer. We probably have to buy a summer cassette.
 

i_b_n_a_n

2021-06-06 17:32:18
  • #6
In the THZ 504, passive cooling is activated via ventilation. Further details MUST be communicated to you by the sanitary engineer. But generally, have your system described to you as thoroughly as possible, trying to understand all functions. Take plenty of notes while doing so. Otherwise, I can recommend visiting the "r o s a F o r u m" for technically complex questions.
 

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