Garden shed base

That is more than enough, provided an appropriate height and compaction of the structure.

We have based our homemade construction on the following setup: [ATTACH alt="hpl-Aufbau-pflaster-Sturm-gartenhaeuschen-Mindestabstand-118979-1.jpg"]7922[/ATTACH]

Hello One00! The thread is a bit older, though. I have been searching for a suitable garden house for several weeks. As you already say, the available HPL garden houses from Gardomo and Garten-Q are extremely expensive. The HPL material and the wooden construction are cheap to get online or at hardware stores. I want to build a garden house measuring 5m (W) x 1m (D) x 2.30+m (H). You write that you designed the garden house yourself. How did you do that? Do you have some tips for me? Best regards, Steve from Lake Constance

Hi Steve,
I constructed the house in SketchUp, but I would say that’s not necessary. A few hand sketches for the details (maybe the roof connection?) should suffice... assuming some technical understanding and spatial imagination.
The substructure of my house consists of simple planed softwood beams (I think it was 6x8), on which from the outside there is a fully applied black underlay membrane and then HPL.
Inside, I screwed OSB boards.

The roof (a kind of "parapet" due to the overhanging HPL panels, making the roof look flat from the outside) also consists of these beams and OSB, on top a glued roof sealing (some kind of rubber membrane) and a gutter at the back. The whole thing has a slight slope, I think about 3 degrees, working perfectly.

I built the frame modularly, so the individual side parts were pre-assembled and then erected as a whole and screwed together, basically timber frame construction. Then some kind of ring beam in the form of additional horizontal beams, which each connect the modules together again.

For the sliding door, I ordered a kit that includes the suspension on top with rollers and a rail, and a "fin" for guidance at the bottom. Inside, I added an anti-pry device, which is basically just a thick beam along which the door runs.

The windows are simple Makrolon panels.

Hi! I am very grateful for your quick and detailed response! Your garden house looks great. That's exactly how I imagined it. You have the house standing on a retaining wall at an angle. Is it somehow attached to it or is it just standing on the slab foundation? Do you still remember where you ordered the sliding door? I will try to rebuild the house. I am not exactly a technical expert but I trust myself to do it with your sketch. Many thanks again One00!
Best regards from Lake Constance

Hi,
the house stands free, so it is not connected to the neighbor's wall. I connected it to the pavement in two places, but in my opinion, that's not really necessary, especially since it only hangs on one or two paving stones anyway. Does that really help? With a slightly different substructure, it might look different, but in my case, nothing moves. However, the house is also quite sheltered from the wind.

The parts for the sliding door... hmm. I couldn't find anything in my inbox anymore. Just google it, you'll find a lot. The decisive factor for the choice is actually only the expected weight of the door.

Regarding the tools:
- Miter saw
- Good cordless screwdriver
- Good cordless impact driver
- Drill for drilling the HPL panels, here a drill press is recommended. I wouldn't want to drill that freehand, but it probably works too.
- Circular saw with guide rail and a saw blade suitable for hard materials

I think that's about it in rough terms...

I already ordered the panels cut to size, but here and there you always have to work on it again, e.g., for the strips on the door.

I found another private message that I once sent to someone:

The skeleton is made entirely of spruce wood frames measuring 58x78mm. I then "wrapped" this substructure with a black underlay membrane to make the whole thing windproof and to have a black joint later at the seams of the HPL panels.

The HPL panels were by far the most expensive item at about 780,-. I pre-cut these into 1000x500 and 1000x250 and ordered them that way. The remaining narrow HPL strips on the door I cut myself from leftovers, which works very well with a good circular saw and the right blade. The windows are tinted Makrolon panels. I mounted the panels with roofing screws. Very important is the dimensional accuracy of the substructure. If that doesn’t fit, either the panels or the joints won’t fit later, so always work precisely!

I covered the roof with 22mm OSB panels and glued a flat roof waterproofing membrane on top. The roof itself has a slope of about 4 degrees so that the water can drain to the back into a gutter and then down through a downpipe. The back of the house I only clad with roofing felt.

The door leaf is self-made; of course, I bought the sliding mechanism. It is a roller system mounted above the door in a rail.

You could also use a ready-made door leaf, but I didn’t find any in the desired width and height.

Installing the lock was also no problem.

The whole thing cost approximately 1500,- € without foundation/paving.