Floor Plan Optimization - 160 sqm Single-Family House

Oh, the front door is in my opinion too small. Normally it is about 1m wide.

I have considered the layout of the element as symbolic and say (informal/without notice=fruitless) nothing about element dimensions that are not mentioned ;-)

Regarding objective complaints, nothing stands out to me here. And/but I would also question the concept at the point "technical room in the connecting corridor" (but would not see it as a big problem). I can't quite follow your reply regarding access to the HAR linguistically.

Our technical room borders our WC. So, a door from the WC to the technical room would have to be installed, which is hardly possible. Since we will probably go into the technical room daily, access from the outside is still manageable. Maybe we can also store our bicycles there.

I would probably reduce some of the interior walls to a thickness of 15 cm (sand-lime brick).

Wouldn't we then have problems with sound insulation inside the house? Which walls would you consider?

- I would close the hallway between the entrance area and kitchen with a double door inside. The purpose is on one hand to separate the guest WC more from the living area and also to make the office quieter for working. Additionally, in my opinion, the open hallway creates an uncomfortable factor - as if you were standing permanently on a train platform.

We have already thought about that too. But I suspect that then the kitchen and dining room would feel too cramped... I'll think it over again.

- A wrap-around terrace is cool but expensive. Is that really important?

Good idea, maybe only two smaller terraces and stepping stones in the lawn between them.

- I would build garage and carport now if financially possible. The reason is the shared roof with the technical room, which you can hardly leave out. Also, such things tend not to happen otherwise.

The shared roof is actually the biggest problem. Otherwise, I would have to split the technical room, garage, and carport and would have three different roofs...

- The windows and terrace doors are, in my opinion, still distributed a bit randomly. I would work on the elevations intensively again. (It would also be interesting to see these)

We will still plan the arrangement of the windows in detail with the general contractor. Unfortunately, we are not that far yet.

- I would swap the shower and WC in the bathroom.

I originally thought that the steam from the shower can better be drawn out of the window. For what reason would you swap them?

- By the way, I would not change the hallway width. In my opinion, it is sufficient for a wardrobe - rather, I would move the glass element at the door.

Do you mean to move the glass element all the way up to the wall? At the moment, there are only about 30 cm behind the door for a wardrobe.

- I personally find doors made of plastic ugly. We have aluminum and are very happy with it. I would have taken wood as well.

I just wonder if it is noticeable in everyday life. The gross difference is about 3000 euros. If I need to replace a plastic door after a few years and the aluminum door lasts twice as long, then the investment would be worthwhile.

We had thought about that too. But I suspect that the kitchen and dining room would then feel too cramped... I'll think it over again.

30 sqm too cramped? Mmh, others have that as a studio apartment. :D

Good idea, maybe just two smaller terraces and stepping stones in the lawn between them.

Saves money for the garage. ;) Because...

The shared roof is actually the biggest problem. Otherwise, I would have to split up the utility room, garage, and carport and end up with three different roofs...

... that would be stupid.

I actually thought that the steam from the shower could better be drawn out the window. For what reason would you swap?

I don't like it when you open the door and "fall" over the throne occupant. Especially when I am the throne occupant. But opinions are very divided there, and Yvonne ( ) always laughs at me for that.

Do you mean to push the glass element all the way up against the wall? At the moment, there are only about 30 cm behind the door for a cabinet.

Yes, for example. I would hinge the door the other way so that when you open it, you stand directly in front of the wardrobe. (Don’t worry – the front door and bathroom door don’t get in each other’s way, and the fact that the front door opens before it is unproblematic since the front door is usually closed.

Plan for at least a 60 cm cabinet – 1 m door – and the rest for the glass element.

I just wonder if it will be noticeable in everyday life.

Well, definitely to me. I find plastic always looks grubby and battered after a few years. But I will probably get stoned by the plastic door owners now.

Our WC adjoins our technical room. So, a door would have to be installed from the WC to the technical room, which is hardly possible. Since we will probably go into the technical room daily, access from the outside is still acceptable. Maybe we can also store our bicycles there.

If the guest from the pot immediately brings a new six-pack, that's practical, and my chimney sweep and heating technician together come less than twice a year. However, I wouldn't want to lug bicycles or strollers through there. : don't you also have a situation where the utility room is an annex of the main building?

Won't we then have problems with soundproofing inside the house? Which walls would you consider suitable in your opinion?

Wherever makes sense, I wouldn't do everything in XL. I have here inferred from the dimensions and the sectional drawing that it is sand-lime brick, where 15 cm for interior walls is probably sufficient, and 20 cm for load-bearing ones also okay. Soundproofing has only very limited to do with mass, even though the faction of the uninitiated is very large. But physics is not impressed by that; it knows no democracy.

I just wonder if it will be noticeable in everyday life. The gross difference is about 3000 Euros. If I naturally have to replace a plastic door after a few years and the aluminum door lasts twice as long, then the investment would be worthwhile.

It certainly is. I was a window manufacturer (aluminum) and then a dealer (also PVC). As an aluminum window provider, we also did many renovations, not just initial installations. The replacement intervals relate aluminum : PVC roughly 40:15. Prices compare roughly 120 to index 100 (PVC specialist dealer list price) or to 70 (PVC discount). Aluminum discount also exists, but "I do not recommend it." Look at the door-side driver’s seat bolsters of cars with high mileage if you want to assess the stress level of front doors compared to toilet windows. In everyday life, it will take you a while to tell aluminum and PVC apart. Up to about three years old, I, as a professional, even need reading glasses; the surface qualities are quite attractive even with "new" PVC.

Everywhere the most sensible, I wouldn’t do everything in XL. From the sizes and the cut representation, I concluded it’s made of sand-lime brick, where 15 cm is probably sufficient for the interior walls, load-bearing 20 is also okay. Soundproofing has very limited to do with mass, even though the faction of the dissenters there is very large. But physics isn’t impressed by that, it knows no democracy.

The walls are made of solid cross-laminated timber. The thickness varies depending on the static calculation. Maybe we can save a bit there after the structural calculation.
What then provides soundproofing if not mass?

Does anyone have experience with window seats? We are considering doing the window seat in the living room as a regular window and extending the windowsill with a bench instead of building a small bay window. Does that make sense?

What do you think about a concrete staircase to save costs? I also find it visually very nice if only the treads are made of oak.

The walls are made of solid cross-laminated timber. [...] What do you think about a concrete staircase to save costs? I also find it very nice visually if only the treads are made of oak.

Concrete staircase in the wooden house, I'll just leave that "uncommented" ;-)

What then provides sound insulation if not mass?

Stiffness, and/or above all: constructive avoidance of sound bridges. Mass too, but not alone. Absorption and diffusion are also helpful. Sound fought at the source doesn’t need to be hindered further during propagation.