Electrical inspection, Q2, bathroom tiles, knee wall, floor-to-ceiling windows

  • Erstellt am 2016-05-27 10:23:28

Mizit

2016-05-27 10:23:28
  • #1
Our preferred provider also offers us an inspection of the sample selection with calculation before the contract is concluded; in addition, we aim for small re-plannings.

Of course, we will take the opportunity to visit and are very excited. I can imagine that in such a sampling center, people are very much under the impression of the events, and the communication is naturally aimed at profit maximization from the provider’s side.

That’s why we have already gone through some catalogs... Trying to get a preliminary feeling for what makes sense, where one should invest now. It’s shocking how expensive building has become. But we don’t want to base this only on the numbers. Instead, on what is a really reasonable standard regarding electrical installations, for example, which one should be prepared to pay for, or what is nonsense, where one is convinced they absolutely need something that, in practice, makes no difference in the house compared to the standard that would have been included in the fixed price.

Maybe you could share your experiences with this or that position... I will attach the floor plan of the intended house again later.

1. Electrical Planning

Here, we find it difficult to estimate what is really needed. Saving on sockets seems wrong to us, but we also cannot categorize what an upgrade "should cost," or whether it makes sense for this trade to possibly outsource it? Google has given me very different price indications regarding upgrades for sockets.

Example: The standard would include 2 ceiling or wall outlets in the kitchen (assuming lamps?), 8 sockets placed at will, 5 double sockets placed at will, 1 antenna socket, 1 stove connection. Standard children’s room would be 1 ceiling outlet, 8 sockets placed at will, 1 antenna socket, 1 telephone socket, 1 smoke detector ---> 8 sockets sounds good at first, but I assume that the standard only offers the minimum and is possibly not sufficient.

The best execution level would offer us
Kitchen: 2 more double sockets, children’s room would additionally include 2 normal sockets and 1 double socket plus 1 LED orientation light. We have to ask what the additional cost is. What do you think, does the upgrade make sense here? Shouldn't there perhaps also be a triple socket? For later under a desk alone... computer, desk lamp, printer...

2. Screed

The screed will be applied floating, and you can choose between 5 or 6 cm thickness. We are laymen and have no idea; does the extra cm bring any benefit? In what way? Is it worth it?

3. Knee Wall

The standard knee wall would be 1 m. Currently, in our rented apartment, we have no sloping walls, and living without slopes is of course nice. To reduce the shock and limitations, an increase in the knee wall height is being considered. We can build two stories, which would basically not be a problem regarding the regulations. From your experience, does it make much difference in everyday life to set the knee wall to 1.40 m? We find a gable roof the nicest, but we could also build two full stories plus a gable roof... but that will certainly be much more expensive, right? In which range do you think such a re-planning would lie?

4. Bathroom Tiles

The standard includes tiles priced at €30 per sqm, which do not appeal to us visually. We find those for €40 very nice in design and would choose accordingly. Our bathroom would have just under 16 sqm of floor space; we would like the side walls to be tiled at least 1.60 m high. Roughly estimating the price for tiles and labor, €1000 should roughly be enough, right?

5. Floor-to-ceiling Windows

We currently live in a very bright apartment, and we do not want to significantly worsen that here. Accordingly, we would like to install 2 additional floor-to-ceiling windows in the living room, as well as double windows with muntins in the parents’ and 2 children’s rooms. I fear that could be a very, very expensive upgrade. But more light is always worth it, right? In which range do you think that would lie?

6. Interior Plaster

All living rooms would receive a 10 mm thick gypsum plaster in Q2 quality. We do not want to paint directly on that or use very thin wallpapers anyway; we imagine “normal” textured wallpapers. Is Q2 sufficient then, or should one choose a better quality right away?

Thanks to you all!
 

T21150

2016-05-27 10:56:50
  • #2
1. Electrical Planning


Make your considerations here based on your floor plan. What goes where? Then you will quickly realize that your standard is certainly not bad, but something is missing here and there:
- You can almost never have enough sockets
- Washing machine, dishwasher, dryer, heating/ventilation: separate sockets
- Cross and switch circuits
- Lamp connections
- Outdoor electrical system (lighting, grilling, appliances, possibly 400V for electric car)
- Network
PS: Remember an outdoor water tap.

2. Screed

Insulation-wise this doesn’t help much. But it is more stable with 6mm. If you plan a fireplace (stove): introduce reinforcement at the spot.

3. Knee wall

With the knee wall, the floor construction thickness of 1.40 m is immediately reduced by about 17 cm, I estimate. Not much remains.
1.60 or 1.80 knee wall is already better. For a bedroom bed, etc.
What the replanning costs, I cannot say from here.

4. Bathroom Tiles

Could work, just have it quickly calculated during the preliminary sampling. By the way, I tiled the shower area all the way up to the ceiling.

5. Floor-to-ceiling windows

Yep. That’s not cheap. Roughly estimated 1,500 - 3,000 per window, depending on the design.
I had two of those double-door windows installed as well. I think that cost about 4,700 after adjustment.
I still regret it to this day. The windows take up huge space inside when opened, I would choose a sliding door today. Also a suggestion for you, perhaps take a larger sliding/lift door and a fixed, floor-to-ceiling window next to it. From my experience, you always go out through only one door anyway.

6. Interior plaster

Honestly: I would recommend Q3 then. If you are sensitive.

Best regards
Thorsten
 

K1300S

2016-05-27 10:57:08
  • #3
Hello Mizit,

I’ll just respond from the perspective of someone who has already been through this phase.



The standard seems rather good to me, although I don’t know if you really need an antenna socket and phone in the kitchen. Otherwise, the distinction between single/double sockets is probably more about whether you need combined or separate supply lines, not whether the socket is in a single or multiple frame. For example, in my kitchen with extractor hood, dishwasher, oven, steam cooker, fridge/freezer combo, and under-cabinet lights, this would suffice. However, I would ask what a separate fuse for the devices costs or whether it is included. Whether the offered upgrade makes sense can only be decided based on your wishes and the price. But if in doubt, it can also be expanded later by your own effort.



Thicker screed is more durable, but is that necessary? Mine is about 5 cm plus fiber reinforcement. Holds perfectly. :)



This will definitely be significantly more expensive with two full floors, but I don’t want to see any more slants, especially since 1 m knee wall is already quite low, as the floor structure will presumably be subtracted as well.



What height is included in the standard? If it’s ceiling-high, something would be credited again if you only take 1.60 m. Another question would be whether there might be additional costs for installation (with larger tiles). Otherwise, I think you will probably end up with a few hundred euros rather than a thousand.



This will cost a bit but probably rather in the low hundreds per window. Installation and fittings are already included in the standard, so only the larger glass or the additional sash is charged.



If you want to wallpaper, then Q2 is enough – otherwise better Q3 or even Q4.

Best regards

K1300S
 

Legurit

2016-05-27 11:00:28
  • #4
Depending on the price, the upgrade is certainly not a bad choice. But 8 sockets are, in my opinion, fully sufficient... where do you want to position them all? We have 9 in the children's rooms; in the kitchen there are 10 and then accordingly for the extractor hood, oven, stove. Your minimum standard is already quite good - there are providers who plan significantly less. It’s best to ask what a socket costs. Don’t forget to ask about LAN outlets as well (even if it’s only for the phone in the end). Do you have underfloor heating? Actually, overlapping the heating pipes is possible - more is certainly not a bad thing; but I would urgently ask what will be reduced because of that (i.e., whether the insulation will then be decreased). We have a 1.6 m knee wall, which is very comfortable... you can sit on beds, put up cupboards and shelves (of course not the 2 m ones). If you can build two stories, why don’t you? What your provider offers you is always enough ;-) But make sure to fix it in the contract. Windows are not that expensive - the builder saves on bricks in return. One could consider lime-cement plaster... although, if you’re going to wallpaper anyway. There are many possibilities.
 

Mizit

2016-05-28 16:03:19
  • #5
 

Mizit

2016-05-28 16:04:35
  • #6


Thank you!
Hm, you can never have enough sockets. I don’t know, I think you don’t have to install as many as possible... they’re not that nice anyway. But I was surprised, for example, that no triple socket is planned in the children’s room. I’m completely clueless about electricity as well, so could I just put 4 sockets next to each other where a desk is supposed to go?

What exactly do cross and two-way switches mean, and where do you need them?

Outdoor water tap is a good point, noted.

Sliding door is also a good idea. Generally, it’s less about having the maximum choice of possible exit points and more about having as bright rooms as possible. Our rental apartment spoils us a lot in that regard; less light would definitely stand out negatively to us... But the budget also sets a limit... 20K € more for windows is rather not feasible...

Q3, if we are sensitive. In what way sensitive? We prefer structured wallpapers...
 

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