Cutting wood for the roof frame yourself - Moisture - Schedule

For the sawmill, cutting wet wood is great - it protects the equipment.
Wood primarily shrinks parallel to the grain. In the process, the wood can twist and crack.
For individual support beams in the construction, I would have no concerns.
If the purlins consist of glued laminated timber and the gables are masonry, I would have no worries about the stability of the construction with the rafters either, but I would be concerned about the appearance.
Who is doing the carpentry?

Then you also have to comply with the DIN (it was even once stated in the VOB that a maximum of 20% moisture is allowed - whether that is still the case today, I do not know). And it does not work the way you imagine with just a few months. Have you ever noticed how many sawn boards are stacked at the sawmill / timber wholesaler? They are there to dry (of course). And sawing does not take as long as with a solid log.

Was wet wood from your own forest also used in the roof structure of your father and sister?

Was wet wood from your own forest also used in the roof structure of your father and sister?

Cutting wet wood is great for the sawmill – it protects the equipment. Wood shrinks mainly parallel to the grain. In doing so, the wood can twist and crack. I would have no concerns about individual support beams in the construction. If the purlins are made of glued laminated beams and the gables are masonry, I wouldn’t worry about the stability of the construction for the rafters, but I would about the appearance. Who does the carpentry?

As I said, we already lack the basics to assess whether rafters as classic beams would even be the best form here. And of course, they cannot be made any less than the purlins as trusses, beams warp relatively the most.

You are a forest owner, but working with a sawmill for the first time? - okay, that explains your naivety.