Carport with massive shed

  • Erstellt am 2019-08-22 11:43:16

11ant

2019-09-17 20:34:14
  • #1

In principle, slips are the same, just in thin slices - nevertheless, not every manufacturer offers every one of their clinker bricks in this format variant. Therefore, the original poster would have to check whether their house clinker is also available as slips for the garage. A different model could look visibly different - more than the scatter width of two batches of the same model. Especially in the case at hand, the garage is not attached to the house, i.e., visual similarity is sufficient. With an extension sharing corners, it would be trickier.
 

Dr Hix

2019-09-17 21:04:35
  • #2


Or have them cut. With a perimeter of 18m and a height of 2.5m, approximately ~2,300 slips are needed. This should be possible to cut within 3 working days. In my opinion, the additional effort divided by the gained square meters should pay off, even for pure storage space.
 

pffreestyler

2019-09-18 08:49:59
  • #3
Brick slips are out because there are still 1.5 pallets of the facing bricks left, but the idea of halving sounds interesting. I can bring that up again, even if the builder will think I'm crazy.

I was also surprised that 11.5 cm sand-lime bricks are sufficient, but when I asked, the builder said that the ring beam provides enough rigidity. He has done it several times before. He also gave me a reference address. I will probably ask again how satisfied they are with the construction. In addition, I still have to talk to the carpenter; he will have his opinion on that as well.

Is the weight of the roof really that severe?
Caution: layman’s opinion:
Comparison house - shed
Rafter length: 8.125 meters vs. 3.59 meters
Wall: 17.5 cm Ytong vs. 11.5 cm

The shed roof should weigh less than half and still has more than half the wall thickness?!

Dowels shouldn’t be a problem. There is only going to be a screw cabinet and a hanger for shovel/hoe etc. planned. Tires will go, for example, on an existing stand. Then shelves on one wall side. The rest is intended as storage space for bicycle, wheelbarrow, lawnmower.
 

guckuck2

2019-09-18 08:58:17
  • #4


The most important opinion is that of the structural engineer. Basically, you can do quite a lot with KS in the different RDKs. However, I would prefer a thicker material here for very practical reasons.
 

guckuck2

2019-09-18 09:01:26
  • #5


What are the exact interior dimensions?
Do not overestimate the available floor space. You also have to be able to pull out a lawn mower without cursing and clearing half the room first. Four bicycles also need their space and maneuvering room.
Therefore, everything that can go on the wall should go on the wall.
Space for a utility sink would also be smart, provided that drainage/water is available. But also arranged so that it is accessible.
 

pffreestyler

2019-09-18 10:01:49
  • #6
The internal dimensions are currently 4.46 x 3.46. That makes 15.43 sqm.

I know the measurements and volume from practical experience from my parents. That is enough for us. But we still need to discuss the positioning of the door again. I am not yet sure if central or a little further to the left is more sensible for storage space.

We won’t get water in there. For that, we have a sink in the utility room and an outdoor water tap nearby. That is enough for us. But I just remembered: We are laying two empty conduits in the shed. One for the 5 x 1.5 mm underground cable, which we have already laid from the house, for socket and lighting. The second is intended for a possibly later needed wallbox for the electric car. How do you do that? Must the empty conduit go into the shed and the wallbox be mounted on the inner wall with the socket led outside by a core drill hole, or does the box go on the covered outer wall and the empty conduit must be routed up in front of the shed?
 

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