Thermal curtains - do they work - who has experience?

But that is not because heat rises upwards, as you suspect.

Has anyone actually written more about this by now? -> maybe Mycraft wanted to point to the hydraulic balancing. In our case, the plumbing company also readjusted, as some rooms heated up significantly more than others.

My posting referred to this statement:

That's exactly the problem. In the basementarea it is 19 degrees and in the upper floorarea 25 degrees.

This is simply because the physical processes regarding heat distribution, heat demand, etc., are completely different in the basement and the upper floor.

Therefore, the temperature difference is not (only), or mainly due to the fact that heat rises.

One must also consider whether the OP is referring to summer or winter, because depending on the season, the processes in the house are different.

In my house, the upper floor is generally 1-2 degrees cooler than the ground floor in winter, so this would, for example, directly contradict the OP’s statement.

Similar with us. Who actually spread the myth that rooms cannot be set to different temperatures? The people who want to save on the ERR???

This is not a myth but simple physics. However, a few key data points must be met. For example, at least a KfW-70 standard, underfloor heating throughout the house, and a reasonably open construction design.

Then the chances of getting significant temperature differences are relatively low. If you also have controlled residential ventilation and an optimally adjusted heating system (hydraulic balancing, low flow temperatures), you can safely forget about it.

The optimally adjusted heating system has little to do with this. When using an ERR, it "clicks" above the set temperature and the circuit is closed. Hydraulic balancing and well-adjusted heating curves are great, but they do not play a role in this scenario.

In my house, the heating in the upper rooms (27+27+18 sqm) was turned off throughout the entire winter. On the ground floor, it was heated to 23 degrees. In the upper rooms, I still had 21 degrees when the room doors were not closed. Therefore, I am of the opinion that the physically caused "stratification" of the air plays a greater role than a slightly higher heat loss on the upper floor.

The optimally adjusted heating has little to do with that. When you use an ERR, it makes a "click" above the set temperature and the circuit is closed.

So you are not aware that the rooms continue to be heated for hours after the click?

Hydraulic balancing and perfectly adjusted heating curves are great, but they do not play a role in this scenario.

It is an interplay of everything and not just one factor. Therefore, these things do indeed play a role.

In my house, the heating in the upper rooms (27+27+18 sqm) was turned off for the entire winter.

How was this determined and controlled?

My post referred to this statement:


This is simply because the physical processes regarding heat distribution, heat demand, etc. in the basement and upper floor are completely different.

Thus, the temperature difference is not (only), or mainly due to heat rising upwards.

One must also consider whether the OP is concerned about summer or winter, because depending on the season, the processes in the house are different.

In my house, it is generally 1-2 degrees cooler in the upper floor in winter than in the ground floor, so this would, for example, directly contradict the OP's statement.



This is not a myth but simple physics. However, a few key data must be correct. Such as at least a KfW-70 standard, underfloor heating throughout the house, and a somewhat open construction.

...

I confirm the key data with a very open construction, etc. Of course, I can't achieve fine differences within an hour, but definitely, when a fluctuating temperature period begins, I regulate the bathroom, office, and bedroom the way I want. We just have to remember to keep the doors half closed or ajar.

Someone from the field or electronically skilled need not tell me otherwise when theoretically it shouldn't work but it does in practice.


To the OP: it occurs to me that you have windows upstairs, which causes the rooms to warm up more and faster than in the basement.

So you are not aware that after the click the rooms continue to be heated for hours?

Please try not to intentionally misunderstand my posts. When I say "the circuit is closed," I am well aware of the fact that the screed still releases its residual energy for a long time.

My point is that with ERR I am able to "shut off" a room for an extended period. At this point, the heating curve and the adjustment no longer matter.

And when I say I have my heating off in 3 rooms over the winter, then you can believe me. My ERR has, like probably all, a corresponding on/off switch.