Technical feasibility and implementation of a shower concept

Hello everyone,

I have a question for all tinkerers and "individualists" and am interested in an exchange of experiences.

At the moment, I have the following problem, maybe someone has already realized a similar project and can help me:

For my shower, I plan to clad the 3 sides facing the walls with real wood parquet down to under the shower tray. To protect the wood from splashing water, I would like to place a glass panel in front of each side with an LED strip between the wood and glass panel at the top and bottom.
Setup: Parquet --> Aluminum LED profile approx. 1-1.5 cm (corresponding to the gap) --> 2 cm glass panel
The panel should then rest on the shower tray (mounting: glass drilled and fixed to the wall with 4 stainless steel rods/spacers each). The side walls + top should then be sealed with silicone (+ aluminum cover rails) to create a closed system.

My big question here is whether condensation water will form in the gap? If yes, how can this problem be avoided or solved in another way?

So far, I have already talked to "experts" and craftsmen, who however did not want to make any statements. Apparently, this deviates too much from the "standard" ;-) I hope you have some good ideas or solutions for me (and no, I do not want tiles in wood look!!!)

Thanks and best regards,

Stoff

then accordingly sealed with silicone (+ aluminum cover rails) so that a closed system is created.

I have no experience with it at all.
It will definitely look interesting.
Good luck with it.

But one thing can be said for sure: silicone is not a sealing agent.

Morning,

My big question here is whether condensation will form in the intermediate space?

If I look at your construction, you have chosen different materials with slightly different coefficients of expansion. Therefore, there is basically the risk that small cracks may form due to temperature changes. I can’t tell you whether and how much the wood will expand.
This initially doesn’t say much, but in the context of the rest of the construction it can become a risk in the long run, namely if the shower tray and wall can move against each other.
I assume that both parts are not rigidly connected. After all, you have also provided a silicone sealing joint for this. Whether it will really hold everywhere permanently seems questionable to me as well.
Tiny cracks are critical because temperature changes can cause a pumping effect that sucks water located outside inward (or the overpressure pushes it to the place with less pressure).
Whether this happens or not is a matter of the current update of your own crystal ball. ;-)
I think your idea is cool, but such an enclosed space would be too risky for me. Search on Wiki for "Mehrscheiben-Isolierglas" (multi-pane insulating glass), there is a picture of how manufacturers of such windows do it. They used to use dried air between the panes, nowadays the noble gas argon. Ultimately, air and water always diffuse through an edge seal. Water that enters the intermediate space this way is absorbed by a desiccant.
A quite elaborate solution, but it works. Maybe you can pick up a few tricks from that.

If yes, how can this problem be avoided or otherwise solved?

Since I come from electronics, I can show you the solutions there when electronics are to be installed waterproof in a housing:
- Put the electronics in, close the housing, and hope that no condensation forms inside.
- Coat the electronics with protective lacquer (though that has its pitfalls) and rather equip the housing with a "relief hole." If water does get in anyway, which cannot be prevented, then it should at least be able to flow out again.

Regarding your LED strip, opinions on lifespan and durability vary.

Thank you Sir Kermit for the detailed explanation. I almost completely agree with your points, and those are also my points that I have researched myself so far. Your point about the desiccant, which is also used in double-glazed windows, is interesting. However, I am not sure (I have only researched superficially so far) whether there are compounds that fundamentally act moisture-regulating (i.e., regularly bind water vapor and then release it again, because for example silica only absorbs water until it is saturated and then the water has to be removed by heating again. This option is less optimal for my application ;-) )

- Would it perhaps be an option ?? (I am currently still not sure myself) to consciously leave the top and sides open for ventilation and only install a kind of "membrane." There must be materials, for example a kind of Goretex, that allow moisture to escape one-sidedly, but do not let water, dust ... enter the cavity from above/side...

I am thinking of visiting a window manufacturer in the next few weeks; maybe they have an idea.

Thanks again!!!

Hello,

Your point about the desiccant, which is also used in double-glazed panes, is interesting.

The manufacturers also have it "easy." They work with dry air (certainly not too dry to avoid other problems), and the amount of silica gel can be adjusted to the expected amount of moisture.

This option is less optimal for my use ;-) )

That's how it is.

- Possibly still an option?? (I'm not sure myself at the moment) to deliberately leave the top and sides open for ventilation and only apply some kind of "membrane.”

Now I’m at a loss. The option of just using double glazing in that size (in other words a window without a frame) is unfortunately not an option, as the lighting you want will no longer work that way. And it would probably be considerably too expensive.

There must be materials, e.g. some kind of Goretex, that let moisture escape on one side but don’t allow water, dust... from above/side into the gap...

Even though I’m not a materials expert, that is a thought worth developing.

Kermit