Renovate an old building from 1957 or buy a new building?

Without being an expert now: the cheapest way to reduce heating costs is the top floor ceiling, which can probably also be done as a DIY project. If possible, also insulate the sloping roof surfaces. The second option is probably the basement ceiling from below – which might also be doable as a DIY project. Heating is certainly also sensible. Windows from 1993 – it strongly depends on the window areas. If there are still any block elements in cement or something like that, or large panoramic areas, rather than regular windows (I think then it probably wouldn’t be worth it). What do the roof windows look like? Front door? Other exterior doors? Facade insulation will probably have the biggest effect, whether it’s worth it you have to calculate. Determine the wall construction, see if you can apply ETICS, calculate the difference. Then you can roughly estimate what the whole thing is allowed to cost. Whether it’s worth it? Unclear. You can already get to 80-120 W/m²K without exaggerating. With roof and basement ceiling, quite a bit could certainly be saved.

Hello,

Thank you for your reply, the house has no roof windows, only 2 dormers, the front door is made of wood also done in 1993, otherwise, the patio door which was also replaced with the windows in 1993.
Unfortunately, ETICS cannot be considered, then I would have to redo the roof with an overhang, for both positions we would be at around 55,000 euros, if not more.

Can it be determined how good or bad the facade wall is, especially with the blown-in Rockwool I would be interested in that?

A friend of mine had such a settlement house from 1947 with 130 sqm insulated and only has about 1200 euros heating costs, with ceiling insulation, roof slopes, basement insulation, new triple glazing, and a new heating system with solar thermal, Hohlwand nicht ausgeblasen.

Regards

Stephan

I recently saw a report that the cost savings with double and triple glazing are well below 10%, I believe it was 5%, so it will not be worth it.

Do you have a cavity layer that you could have blown in? If so, you can calculate that quite easily and if yes, that certainly makes the most sense. The cost savings are 5% ?! What is that supposed to mean anyway, of what? The total heating costs? The heat loss from window A to window B? What was compared with what here? That is just generally stupid nonsense from people who want to make a quota. With double glazing, it ranges from Uw 1.7 to one of 1.2 ... with triple glazing from 1.1 to 0.65 (of course, these values also depend on the type of window - glass portion / frame portion). Here the savings refer purely to the window factor 1.1 to 2.6... and that is what one window saves compared to the other... only it is negligible if you have 10 m² window area and 200 m² wall area.

The whole thing of course also applies to statements in the other direction.

Of course, it was about the heating costs. And about normally sized windows.

Without consulting a professional who is familiar with the subject matter, I would neither tackle the windows nor the additional insulation. Windows and walls need to match.

Especially when renovating an old building, people often end up with problems in the form of moisture in the house.

From my own experience (built in 1964, 240 sqm living space, 2 full floors on a 1,000 sqm hillside plot) I can contribute the following: Surprises can be expensive. Some work might then possibly be postponed because it is not yet urgent. .....Even after 20 years, we have not stopped remodeling, renovating, and expanding. There is always more than enough to do on an old house, at least if you plan to do some work yourself and realize some things according to your budget. Surely some compromises are also made.

We have sold our "old" house and are building new! 20 years were enough for us. The new owner is now continuing where we eventually lost interest.