The electrician lays the connections and cables all the way into the attic. I wanted to install a satellite system on the rafter bracket, with four cables from the LNB coming in and attaching them to a grounding block in the attic. From there, the electrician would later run the cables further.
No one points out more often than I do that, according to NAV § 13, installations of grounding and equipotential bonding are reserved for licensed electrical specialists.
Given the fact that only a few antennas installed by licensed electrical specialists are even 100% standards-compliant, this also takes some overcoming.
But now the equipotential bonding. Run 16mm copper from the satellite into the utility room individually, and from the grounding block a copper cable to the satellite dish?? Is that correct?
Yes, that would be a standards-compliant GROUNDING, provided, exceptionally, that the connections on the roof rafter bracket and the grounding system are certified to withstand 100 kA lightning current. 16 mm² copper wire can withstand monster lightning strikes of 200 kA, subject to clamps designed for that purpose.
How exactly do I attach the copper stuff to the mast? Clamp?
Actually, you do not do that yourself, because you are not a licensed electrical specialist, see above.
[*]Grounding conductors must be clamped to masts or the vertical pipe of roof rafter brackets using lightning-current-resistant class H certified grounding clamps. So far, there is no roof rafter bracket with a certified clamp for grounding conductors.
[*]If the grounding conductor is connected to a main earthing terminal (HES), it must be one designed for lightning equipotential bonding and not, as is often the case, Elis’s favorite busbar for power equipotential bonding according to VDE 0100 standard series.
[*]The equipotential bonding of cable shields is connected via grounding block or grounding angle and with 4 mm² copper that is not lightning-current resistant to the grounded point; likewise, housings of mains-powered components, especially multiswitches (even if located in the basement).
[*]For that, the usual banding grounding clamps with an M6 screw and clamp plate suffice; a properly installed cable lug on an M5 screw also works.
Pictures say more than words. Unfortunately, the system currently shows me that I do not have the rights to upload them.