New construction, wood-burning stove, nominal heat output, how now?

  • Erstellt am 2017-11-08 10:08:34

Joedreck

2017-11-08 13:38:38
  • #1
Yes, with the correct interpretation the self-regulation effect applies. Is there anything on Google about it
 

Domski

2017-11-08 15:08:26
  • #2


In the case of a pure wood stove without any water circuits, rather unlikely. Since the combustion chamber must be correspondingly small for low output, you would have to continuously add fuel over a long period (>12 hours) to utilize the self-regulating effect. Nobody does that with a wellness fire.

A friend had a very small masonry stove with a comparatively large storage mass installed in his Energy Saving Ordinance 2014 house, costs about 8K without the chimney. It works in the large room (approx. 60sqm). In our almost KfW40 house, it could still work, but probably at a very critical limit.
 

Musketier

2017-11-08 16:10:49
  • #3
Isn't the self-regulation effect already that the heat emission from the floor to the air is automatically reduced when the temperature difference between the floor and the air becomes smaller? If the room temperature is heated to about 23 to 24° by the wood stove, the heating does not emit any temperature anymore. This should be reached relatively quickly with a wood stove.
 

onyx.dop

2017-11-08 16:40:57
  • #4
: I would hope that with the additional fireplace heat I can minimally lower the temperature of the underfloor heating.

A controlled residential ventilation system is planned.

I think I am talking about a kind of "masonry stove" as mentioned by Domski. So a heating insert surrounded by fireclay bricks (total weight ~1 ton), without water. And here a heating insert with the lowest possible output would probably be the best solution, right?
 

Musketier

2017-11-08 16:56:13
  • #5
In my opinion, after 2-3 years of heating optimization (without irregular influences from [Solaranlage] or [Kamin]). By the time you have adjusted your heating curves to your individual habits, the effect of the "new" is gone, so that the [Kamin] is no longer turned on several times a week, but only occasionally, because otherwise it turns into work. This way, you set the heating curve again so that it works even without the [Kamin]. Incidentally, the bathroom is the room the heating curve is aligned to, not the living room. Ideally, the [Kamin] should be in the bathroom to lower the heating curve.
 

berny

2017-11-08 17:06:03
  • #6
That's right. The building has a heating demand, and it doesn't matter to the building (its heat losses) what kind of heat generation is used to meet it. Ideally, there would of course be a sensibly arranged room controller that reduces the heat pump output or even switches it off when the desired room set temperature is reached. This works better in open floor plans (few interior doors, open stairwell, gallery, etc.) than in a small living room with a constantly closed door.
 

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