Insulate concrete ceiling upper floor

  • Erstellt am 2020-10-27 15:31:48

chippy79

2020-11-09 15:52:29
  • #1
Ah ok, thx I'll take a closer look at the stairs.

By the way, the insulation material has a board format of 1200x500 and a step joint
PUR/PIR rigid foam boards aluminum thickness 160 mm
WLG 023 2nd choice

I then come to about 2,230 EUR gross for 111 sqm, i.e. 20.10 EUR gross per sqm. Unfortunately, the delivery costs 415 EUR net.

Best regards
 

chippy79

2020-11-30 10:40:19
  • #2
Update: So, the insulation materials have been delivered for 110 sqm. :-)

Questions:

- Should I ideally wear a mask and goggles when cutting and laying the materials? I noticed that the PUR insulation boards are also somewhat dusty?

- Could I use old tongue-and-groove parquet boards as walkable boards?

- And can you tell me what those strange pipes are that run from the concrete floor through the roof?








thx
 

Piotr1981

2020-11-30 10:42:11
  • #3


The pipes you see there are the corresponding stack vents for your wastewater. They run out through the roof. I did not use a mask – only if you possibly use clamp felt, then that could certainly be recommended. Otherwise, in my opinion, there’s nothing major to consider with the insulation boards. Have fun and good luck :)
 

chippy79

2020-11-30 10:47:46
  • #4


Ah ok, thanks for the information. When mounting our photovoltaic modules on the roof, the installers from the solar company removed some of these ventilation caps on the roof. Is this now a problem for the ventilation of the corresponding wastewater pipes?

Do I need to pay attention to anything special when cutting the panels around these pipes, but also around the wooden beams standing on the concrete floor, near the chimney? For example, is it sufficient to cut square openings around the pipes, or does everything need to fit as tightly as possible?

thx
 

Piotr1981

2020-11-30 10:56:27
  • #5


I understand that you are insulating with a thickness of 16cm? Correct?

Personally, I would recommend working in 2 layers.
1) 1 layer of 8cm butted against the base purlin, entire roof (lengthwise).
2) 2nd layer of 8cm butted over the 1st layer, entire roof (crosswise).

This method avoids thermal bridges between the individual panels (joints).

When you have finished with the 2 layers, I recommend placing compression felt between the wall and the base purlin to avoid the thermal bridge of the wood there. Take a look at image no. 1.

 

chippy79

2020-11-30 11:09:53
  • #6
I now only have the problem that the panels are 120 cm x 50 cm, 16 cm thick, and have a step tongue and groove joint incorporated. They also cannot be separated in the middle, i.e., they can only be laid as a single layer with 16 cm thickness. But basically, due to the incorporated step tongue and groove, the joints are already staggered, right?

As a compression felt, should I use fiberglass insulation? What gap in cm should I leave around it? For example, should I leave 10 cm free around the chimney up to the concrete floor? Then "only" 16 cm of glass wool there? I guess I would lose some thermal insulation effectiveness then, right?

Looks nice how you installed it :)
 

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