Insulate concrete ceiling upper floor

2020-11-30 11:16:27

I now only have the problem that the boards are 120 cm x 50 cm, 16 cm thick, and have a stepped rebate worked in. They also cannot be separated in the middle, i.e. can only be laid in a single layer with 16 cm. But basically, because of the stepped rebate incorporated, the joints are already offset, right? As clamping fleece, should I use fiberglass insulation? What gap in cm should I leave around it? So, for example, around the chimney, leave 10 cm free up to the concrete floor? Then "only" 16 cm of glass wool there? I lose some thermal insulation effectiveness there, right? Looks nice how you laid it :)

In my opinion, that is not a problem either, but I assume that you will have to "saw/cut" in length at some point. Then you would start with the shorter part at the other end. Yes, fiberglass insulation – WLG 035 and possibly 16 mm (then you ensure that the fiberglass aligns flush with the wood and your boards). Basically: cover as much as possible – everywhere there are gaps is a thermal bridge.

2020-11-30 11:40:18

Because of the cutting. That means first measuring the length and then cutting one board accordingly so that the board fits, and that you have a cut board on both sides? Or did I misunderstand? I place the long edge of the board against the gable end of the roof, right? And when laying the boards, do I have to stagger them so that no too-long joint runs "downward"?

How big should the gap between the insulation boards and the chimney, timber studs, pipes be at least? I’m not allowed to compress the glass wool, right? 10 cm all around?

What should I do with the horizontally laid pipes? See third photo. No insulation board there, but push 16 cm of glass wool underneath and lay it on top?

Can you quickly tell me something about the removed ventilation pipes?

thx

2020-11-30 11:42:59

Because of the cutting. That means first measuring the length and then cutting one board accordingly so that the board fits and so that you have a shortened board on both sides?
Or did I misunderstand? I place the long edge of the board against the gable end of the roof, right? And when laying the boards, do I also have to stagger them so that no seam is too long "downwards"?

How big should the gap between insulation boards and chimney, wooden studs, pipes be at least? I am not allowed to compress the glass wool, right? 10 cm all around?

What should I do with the horizontally laid pipes? See the third photo. There no insulation board, but push 16 cm of glass wool underneath and lay it over?

Can you quickly tell me something about the removed ventilation pipes?

thx

You start with the first board, lay more beside it, and in the end you will see that no whole board fits.
Then cut to size and close the gap. Start the leftover piece completely from the beginning and then lay a complete one next to it, and so on. This way you avoid the seam "downwards."

Yes, basically cover everything that is exposed.
If you can’t work with boards there, then use wool. But 16 cm should also be sufficient for the pipes.

2020-11-30 12:55:13

So if it has already been carried out, there should now be puddles around the pipes,...

2020-11-30 14:59:17

So if it has already been executed, there should now be puddles around the pipes,...

But the solar company replaced the old tiles with metal tiles. Everywhere they had to mount the brackets for the photovoltaic modules. Now I assume that they also did this where the ventilation tiles were. But thanks for the tip. I will take another close look in the attic today.

2020-11-30 15:13:18

It rather resembles the condensate on the pipe, the "metal shingles," and where the exhaust air is no longer vented through the roof.

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Insulate concrete ceiling upper floor

Piotr1981

chippy79

Piotr1981

parcus

chippy79

parcus