Hydraulic balancing, disable single room control?

With a pump with PWM, the automatic setting at 100% doesn’t help as far as I know. If anything, you have to set the pump to a constant flow rate. My circulating pump also has 100% power available on paper (heating controller), but it regulates itself based on the differential temperature and currently fluctuates between 50% and 65%.

Concrete example: I give the pump 100% power permission for heating, have all balancing valves on the heating circuit distributor opened to 100%, and the thing pushes 650 l/h through the system, showing it’s hovering around 50-65%.

When the system is in hot water mode, the pump power jumps to nearly 100% and the pump circulates 1300 l/h.

The control behavior may vary from manufacturer to manufacturer, however.

I have a stupid question, I have Topmeters from 0-3l/min in my heating circuit distributor. The same manufacturer also offers Topmeters 0.5-5l/min. If I now replace the old one with the new one in the bathroom, would the room then have a max of 5l/min?

I don't suppose so. Because it depends on the pump and the pipe diameter.

If I now replace the old one with the new one in the bathroom, would the room then have a maximum of 5l/min?

What flow rate was calculated? Are you currently already at the limit (3l/min)? At some point you enter the thermal short circuit, then it messes up your entire energy input into the underfloor heating.

With a pump with PWM, the automatic setting at 100% doesn’t do anything as far as I know. If at all, you have to set the pump to a constant volume flow. On paper, my circulation pump (heating controller) also has 100% power available, but it regulates itself based on the delta T and currently fluctuates between 50% and 65%.

A concrete example: I give the pump for the heating 100% power, and have all balancing valves on the heating circuit distributor fully opened at 100%, and the thing pushes 650 l/h through the system while showing it is idling around 50–65%.

When the system is in hot water mode, the pump power jumps to almost 100%, and the pump circulates 1300 l/h.

However, the control behavior may differ from manufacturer to manufacturer.

Does this mean that you practically don’t have to set the HUP to 100% for the thermal balancing because it also “modulates” according to PWM?

Another question: if I fully open all the top meters and then gradually lower the heating curve step by step. Isn’t there a case where the pump is overloaded with so many open top meters and fails early? Or is there no such thing as too much flow?

Because the more flow there is, the lower the flow temperature has to be, that is clear. But is there also too much (at the cost of the HUP’s lifespan)?

Just because the new top meter shows more, the pump does not push more into the heating circuit.

does that mean that you practically do not have to set the HUP to 100% for the thermal balancing because it also "modulates" according to PWM?

Another question: if I turn all top meters fully open and then gradually lower the heating curve. Isn't there a case where the pump is overloaded and breaks down early due to the many open top meters? Or is there no such thing as too much flow?

because the more flow, the lower the flow temperature has to be, that is clear. But is there also too much (at the expense of the HUP service life)?

It depends on the pump; some you can set to a constant volume flow, others not.

The more top meters you have open, the less the pump has to work. Every half-open or closed top meter represents an additional pressure loss that the pump has to compensate for.

At a certain point, it is said that increasing the pump power no longer makes sense because the efficiency gained in terms of compressor performance through the lower flow temperatures is negated by the additional power consumption of the UWP.

Just as an example (which does not mean that this is necessarily the case): what do you prefer – that the compressor dies after 5 years and has to be replaced for 2500-3000€ because it was cycled to death? Or that maybe after 10 years a UWP breaks for 300€ and is replaced by the heating technician for 200€?