Hydraulic balancing, disable single room control?

From a certain point, it is said that increasing the pump capacity no longer makes sense because the efficiency gained in compressor performance through the lower flow temperatures is negated by the additional power consumption of the UWP.

Just as an example (which does not mean this is the case) what would you prefer if after 5 years the compressor dies and needs to be replaced for 2500-3000€ because it was cycled to death? Or if maybe after 10 years a UWP breaks for 300€ and is replaced by the heating engineer for 200€?

Well, of course the replacement of the HUP.

So set all the flow meters to maximum flow and then, as described, gradually lower the heating curve; and if the first room then becomes too cold, increase it again by 0.5 degrees and throttle the other rooms a bit with the flow meters that are still too warm. That's how it works, right?

And if I could adjust the capacity on my HUP, would you also set it to 100% before adjusting or not? The problem is that the data sheet of my heat pump shows a dash instead of a value for "Heating circuit, volume flow (pipe dimensioning)". So set the maximum adjustable flow in the menu (provided the HUP can be adjusted)? And after balancing switch back to auto.

Of course, changing the HUP.

So set all top meters to max flow and then, as described, first gradually lower the heating curve, and if it gets too cold in the first room, raise it again by 0.5 degrees and throttle the other rooms that are still too warm a little bit at the top meter. That's how it works, right?

And if I could adjust the power on my HUP, would you set it to 100% before making this adjustment or not? The annoying thing is that on the datasheet of my heat pump under "Heating circuit, volume flow (pipe sizing)" there is a dash instead of a value. So set the maximum adjustable flow in the menu (provided the HUP can be adjusted)? And after the balancing, switch back to auto.

I would set the pump how it is supposed to run permanently later on. Otherwise, all the adjustments are pointless.

Of course, the replacement of the HUP.

So set all flow meters to max flow and then, as described, gradually lower the heating curve step by step, and when the first room gets too cold, raise it again by 0.5 degrees and reduce the other rooms that are still too warm a bit on the flow meter. That's how it works, right?

And if I could adjust the output on my HUP, would you set it to 100% before making that adjustment or not? The annoying thing is that in the datasheet of my heat pump, under "heating circuit, volume flow (pipe dimensioning)" there is a dash instead of a value. So set the maximum adjustable flow in the menu (assuming the HUP can be adjusted)? And after balancing, switch back to auto.

Maybe this helps regarding balancing if the pump cannot be adjusted:

This is theoretical but: if all heating circuits are closed except the one to be adjusted, and the pump is for example set to only 50%, it should allow full flow to the heating circuit to be adjusted, and one can set it accordingly if all others are closed. Afterwards do the same with the next circuit but close the previously adjusted circuit at the shut-off valve, not at the control valve in the return line. And then continue like this.

It depends on the heating circuit distributor. Also, I see the risk that if the bypass valve is deactivated, the system may go into a high-pressure fault because at that moment, the open heating circuit certainly does not reach the minimum volume flow. Actually, the bypass valve should be active for the adjustments in this case, but I think that may mess up the balancing again because part of the flow is bypassed at the distributor.

Maybe this helps regarding the balancing if the pump cannot be adjusted:

It is now theory but: if all heating circuits are closed except the one to be adjusted and the pump is, for example, only at 50%, it should allow full flow to the heating circuit to be adjusted and you can adjust it accordingly if all others are closed. Afterwards, do the same with the next circuit before but close the previously adjusted circuit at the shut-off valve, not at the control valve in the return line. And then continue like this.

It depends on the heating circuit distributor. Also, I see the risk that when disabling the bypass valve, the system goes into a high-pressure fault because at that time the open heating circuit certainly does not have the minimum flow rate. Actually, the bypass valve should be active for the adjustments in this case, but I think that can ruin the balancing again because part of the flow is bypassed past the distributor.

That sounds really complicated, right?

I will do it now as I said before.

Stepwise lower the heating curve (in the cold days the endpoint, the higher value) and then before open all heating circuits full throttle.

Thank you and best regards