Gas, heat pump, and solar for a single-family house?

Wouldn't a domestic hot water heat pump also work in the case of the OP?

In new buildings? I know, it is the latest "toy" of the sanitary and heating companies. Rhineland greetings from on the road

Thank you all again!
Tomorrow we have a meeting with the architect, that will definitely help us. Also, I just stumbled over the 15% statement from about the heating people apparently talking about a house according to the 2016 Energy Saving Ordinance, because one of them said we would need 30% renewable energy.
So everything is totally confusing and not properly coordinated. We still have a lot to clarify.


A few more notes, I can only respond to the other things tomorrow, I’m too tired...

- What do you mean, that the children would "evaporate" at 22 degrees with underfloor heating? Do you mean that would be too warm? That’s very subjective. We currently have a very poorly adjusted underfloor heating in the rented apartment with really, really warm tiles (definitely over 30 degrees, if not 35). Room temperature in winter usually 24 degrees and I don’t want it much colder. I like to walk around in a thin shirt even in winter. I don’t even own normal sweaters.

- About the basement: you said it would be expensive cost-wise to keep the underfloor heating permanently at 17-18 degrees. Is underfloor heating really that much more expensive than individual radiators during construction?

- Construction time – we are currently planning 10-12 months (I would prefer 10, the architect and the others 12 or more), whereby the shell shouldn’t stand over the whole winter. The screed should definitely dry for 28 days and then there will probably be the heating-up program.

One stupid question still – in a house with very good insulation, heat pump without gas and solar – how is the hot water heated then? The underfloor heating only has a flow temperature of about 30 degrees, that is reached by the heat pump, right? And the rest is then done with regular electricity?

The thing with 22 degrees and evaporating was meant as a joke, as your family was talking about it.

A heat pump can produce hot water up to 60 degrees C, but effectively max. 50 degrees.

If you don’t have special insulation, take a brine heat pump with trench/area collector if you don’t want to use a gas condensing boiler.

But all of this should become clearer after the HLB...

Good evening,

Also, I just stumbled over the 15% statement from Bauexperte about the heating guys apparently talking about an Energy Saving Ordinance 2016 house, because one said we need 30% renewable energies.

No - that is already correct. Compared to the Energy Saving Ordinance 2007 versus Energy Saving Ordinance 2009, the annual primary energy demand must be 30% lower; the new components have to achieve a 30% better energy value than required by the Energy Saving Ordinance 2007.

- what do you mean, at 22 degrees and underfloor heating the children evaporate? Do you mean that would be too warm? That is very subjective. We currently have a very poorly adjusted underfloor heating in the rental apartment with really really warm tiles (definitely over 30 degrees, if not 35). Room temperature in winter mostly 24 degrees and I don’t want it much colder either. I also like to walk around in a thin shirt in winter. I don’t even own normal sweaters.

I have to disagree with my subsequent poster – "22° and evaporating" was not meant as a joke. That is – with tightly set coils – quite a lot. You will notice yourself; supply temperature. is (even) too warm for you, with your heat needs. As stated, today is not comparable to yesterday.

- regarding the basement: they said, in terms of cost, it would be expensive to run the underfloor heating permanently at 17-18 degrees. Is underfloor heating really that much more expensive to build than individual radiators?

An example: You want to keep a water boiler at a constant temperature. What do you do? Right, you heat it up and turn the switch down so that your desired temperature is maintained; the water simmers. It is the same with rooms that need heating; no matter where in the house. It is far cheaper to maintain a once set temperature than to heat up quickly now and then. Why? If the water has cooled down, it costs significantly more electricity to get back to the desired temperature.

Nowadays, an underfloor heating system doesn’t really cost much more anymore; if at all.

- construction time – we are currently planning for 10-12 months (I would prefer 10, architect and the others 12 and more), with the shell not standing over the entire winter. The screed should dry for 28 days for sure, and then apparently the heating program starts.

That long? The thing with the screed is (almost) correct; in my opinion, 21 days are enough.

One stupid question – in a house with very good insulation, heat pump without gas and solar – how is the hot water heated then? The underfloor heating only has a supply temperature of about 30 degrees, which is provided by the heat pump, right? And the rest is done by normal electricity?

Either by means of a closed system – the domestic hot water tank and the indoor unit of the heat pump form a unit – or by means of a separate domestic hot water storage tank. In both cases, the "hot" water is at the top (physics) and supplies the warm water for the bathtub/shower.

Rhenish greetings

In new construction? I know, it's the latest "toy" of the plumbing and heating companies.

Rhenish greetings from on the road

What do you mean by that?
Would you therefore prefer a solar system to an air-water heat pump?

Hello,

we have an air-water heat pump with controlled residential ventilation as a combined device in our house.

The attic, ground floor, and in the basement the guest room as well as the hallway are heated using a hydronic underfloor heating system. Our hot water is also generated by the air-water heat pump.

I consider solar for water heating or even an additional gas heating for water heating completely unnecessary.

Instead, we installed a photovoltaic system with 4.25 kWp with surplus feed-in on the roof. So far (heating has been running since November 2014) we have drawn almost exactly as much electricity from the grid as we have fed in – and that includes the screed drying program and three months of interior finishing.

Therefore, in my opinion, a photovoltaic system would be much more sensible than anything else.

I would never want to do without the controlled residential ventilation again – stale air, especially in the bedrooms, is now a thing of the past. Yes, you can hear the system if you listen very closely and the house is completely quiet. But the quiet noise is really not disturbing. No one feels any drafts in our house either.

Regards,

Dirk