Which windows and doors are recommended?

I do not mean that - but I am happy to be corrected. And even if: You can get through with a standard drill anyway - it would just take longer.

And that is what the RC classes are about: No insurmountable obstacle, but delaying - every second longer is a deterrent.

especially since you yourself write that you have no idea. However, you enjoy a certain competence in this forum – therefore you should perhaps handle it carefully – especially since it apparently doesn’t even interest you.

If you quote me already, you should please do it more carefully!

I couldn’t care less what metal exactly the fitting/drill protection consists of; imagine, I don’t have to know either. The provider I trust must know/represent that, because he provides warranty to my customer.

Topic competence: According to the Duden dictionary, this is translated as expertise and ability; I don’t read anything about “having to be able to walk on water.” If you are looking/wishing for that, you are better off in the green forum; you certainly mastered their manners well. Although you have a hard time dealing with resistance there; I assume your nickname change here is based on experience there.

Does RC 2 not already include special sheets as drill protection? Unless these are not made of extra hard metal and penetrable with any cheap metal drill, they would be completely useless, right?

Since friend Sebastian unfortunately owes you an answer (you could also have easily used Aunt Google), I have among other things visited the police’s websites and found the following passages:

*"If you want to build or plan to replace doors, then you should use all doors that provide access to the house or apartment in the form of RC-2 doors. These doors are tested for burglary resistance according to DIN EN 1627 and have thus successfully demonstrated that their overall construction with door leaf, frame, lock, and fittings has no weak points.

7 resistance classes Basically, DIN EN 1627 distinguishes between 7 resistance classes (resistance class = RC). While classes RC 1 to RC 3 are used in the private sector, classes RC 4 to RC 6 are recommended by the police especially for the commercial sector.

Recommendation: RC-2 doors In normal private residential areas – whether house or apartment – the police recommend burglary protection through RC-2 doors. Depending on the value of the household goods and one’s own security needs, doors of resistance class RC 3 may also come into question.

and further:

*"80% of burglaries occur by prying open the window or patio door and about 5% of perpetrators break the glass a little to operate the window handle (less than 1% of burglars break the entire pane and climb through the sharp-edged opening)".

Mushroom head cams – screw-on protections – lockable window handles with mushroom head cams instead of roller cams in the window fitting or with screw-on protections can make it so difficult for perpetrators to pry open that they regularly give up the break-in attempt. By using burglary-resistant glazing and/or a lockable window handle, one can prevent glass access and unlocking the window from the inside."

as well as:

**"Anyone who wants to protect their windows against burglaries should choose models with properly secured panes and resistant locking devices. Ulrich Tschorn, managing director of the Window + Facade Association (VFF) in Frankfurt am Main, points this out. According to him, windows are considered safe if they have strike plates screwed into the frame, a rotation-proof handle with drill protection, and mushroom head cams secured against lifting in several corners. Windows in private houses should belong to security class RC 2 (for Resistance Class).

Front doors are best made of sturdy materials. They have drill-resistant locks or automatically locking multi-point locks. Massive locks and concealed hinges are also good. For doors, Tschorn also recommends models of security class RC 2."

*Source: Zuhause Sicher
**Source: Focus online

If you now – like friend Sebastian – want to welcome the used material by name, ask the officer in police advice. I can warmly recommend that anyway; the gals and guys do excellent work in the field of burglary protection awareness!

Rhineland regards

I think it's great how you immediately snap at everyone... really impressive. By the way, there is still nothing about metal in RC2N in your quotes...

I would really appreciate it if you could go poke your eyes out somewhere else. Nevertheless, I am of course grateful for any helpful information.

I have already read a lot about it, but that in as many as 5% of cases a glass break-in occurs, I had not remembered. That of course explains why a push button or lock with key left inserted is only limitedly helpful.

The question remains what is the most sensible way of protection, since I know for sure that I will definitely not lock my patio door every time. I will probably have to be content with successfully defending myself against prying open. The locks would then only be actively used during vacation time and on all windows that are never opened.

There is no such thing as 100% security anyway - screw the 6%.

How is it actually with triple glazing with RC 2 - don’t the sashes become terribly heavy? Especially with patio doors one meter wide, this surely makes itself noticeable. And it certainly becomes a bit darker - the question is whether one more or less pane actually makes a significant difference.

A second thought that always plagues me is also: If you can already tell from outside that the house is exceptionally well secured, maybe that attracts burglars all the more, because they think there’s something particularly worth stealing.

You can’t see RC 2 N, but you can definitely see RC 2, which also worries me a bit in this regard.

How can you recognize the RC classes from the outside? Especially the difference between RC2 and RC2N?

Contrary to my predecessor, I see no problem whether it is mounted with a key or a push button.

However, the questioner means the stuck key

What still interests me greatly is how the attacks on the handle olives take place. How do burglars open them from the outside?

By drilling through the frieze or destroying a small piece of the window (glass cutter, burning, or simply throwing something through it) and using a hook or sturdy wire through this hole to turn the window handle.
This already doesn’t work with a locked handle!

I don’t believe that a burglar risks breaking his neck by trying to break open a window on the upper floor standing on a trash bin, but nothing prevents him from bringing a ladder.

And I know that a burglar doesn’t travel or hike around with a ladder. He rather uses found entry aids.