Water under tiles in a tiled shower

  • Erstellt am 2023-10-10 07:45:05

Densky89

2023-10-10 07:45:05
  • #1
Good morning,

we have a problem with water behind the joints in our shower, but our tiler is not very understanding about it. Maybe someone has experience with this issue and can give us an assessment before we contact an expert:

- The shower in the guest bathroom has been used a total of 5 times since we moved in, so it cannot be wear and tear.

- The joints in the showers on the sides (transition from floor to wall tile) came loose and salts (?) are emerging there. You can see in the photos that near the silicone joints, the regular tile joints are also noticeably darker, which in our opinion indicates moisture.

- We informed the tiler about the problems and he said these were maintenance joints, so not a case for a complaint, but he would redo the joints. Then he applied a new silicone joint on top of the old one, which came loose immediately after one shower (silicone on silicone obviously did not hold). The dark spots on the tile joints were still there several weeks after the last shower. When pressing on the new joints, water also came out of the joints.

- As mentioned, since the new joints came loose from the old ones and the old joints are already damaged, I removed the silicone to redo the joints completely. While doing that, we could see that water had collected behind the joints and there were large cavities there. A piece of paper pushed between the joints immediately absorbed water as well.

- This means that the joints let water through, and water collects in the cavities. If water continues to collect there and cannot dry out (because it is behind the silicone joints), we will have water damage here within a very short time, right?

Is that normal? In our opinion, it should be sealed there in such a way that no water can collect?

Thank you in advance if someone can provide an assessment.
 

KarstenausNRW

2023-10-10 08:28:12
  • #2
1. How old is the bathroom?
2. Silicone joints are actually only maintenance joints and do not ensure the watertightness of the shower.
3. Behind the tiles there should be a waterproof coating that prevents water from penetrating the walls. Therefore, the joints do not need to be waterproof.
4. Redoing joints (even if done by the tiler) actually means removing the old ones and then regrouting.

Make a deal with the tiler. You scrape out and he reseals completely once. Or get someone who does this professionally. Many tilers cannot do this properly.
 

Densky89

2023-10-10 08:52:00
  • #3


Thanks for the feedback!

1. The bathroom was tiled in February 2023, we moved in March.

2. Shouldn’t the joints at least last longer than 5 showers?

3. I understand that, but if there are such large cavities where water collects and cannot drain, won’t a moldy, stinking broth accumulate there over the years? Shouldn’t the tiler work in such a way that the adhesive fills the cavities so that liters of water don’t stand there?

4. Yes, we thought so too... That a tiler puts a new one onto the old, damaged one is really sad...

Thanks for the assessment.
 

i_b_n_a_n

2023-10-10 09:09:59
  • #4
With this attitude of the tiler, I fear the worst. New build and move-in March 2023 or renovation?

Are there pictures showing the bathroom in the shell condition or during construction, especially regarding the sealing UNDER the tiles mentioned above?
If this is missing, a new silicone joint won't help either! Even the non-silicone joints are not 100% tight. So if no (double) waterproof coating has been applied, the sealing tapes and collars have been omitted, this is a nice case for demolition :-(
Otherwise, really big damage to the house has to be feared ...
 

Densky89

2023-10-10 09:18:16
  • #5
It is a new build. No, unfortunately I have no pictures of the shell condition and cannot say whether it was properly waterproofed. I have meanwhile lost all trust in the tiler. Is there a way to subsequently find out whether it was waterproofed? Other than removing tiles and checking underneath?
 

Buchsbaum

2023-10-10 09:33:04
  • #6
First, I would check the slope in the shower towards the drain. Use a small spirit level and check if the water does not flow against the drain or even stands there.

At the connection between the floor and the wall at the back, I would glue a rail instead of the joint using body adhesive Sika Flex or similar.
Then the connection would already be sealed. I would also seal the other connections with body adhesive instead of silicone.

There are semi-circular sealing rails for the corner area.



But first check the slope, otherwise everything else makes no sense.
 

Similar topics
07.01.2016Are cold corners in new buildings still contemporary?13
17.05.2016Shower buffer storage15
11.06.2018New construction lighting planning and implementation123
18.08.2016New construction with sand-lime brick + ETICS - Criticism?!32
15.12.2016Shower tray or tiled shower?24
12.10.2016New window lintels on the ground floor are too low.75
16.01.2017Incorrectly adjusted heating system - a case for warranty in new construction?19
13.08.2017How do I recognize a good tiler for large tiles?13
30.09.2018BAFA funding for air-water heat pumps in new construction - how does it work?30
10.11.2017New construction, wood-burning stove, nominal heat output, how now?38
30.12.2017Heating system new construction (heat pump + stove + solar)35
01.01.2018Order tiling materials yourself - tiles12
23.10.2018New construction after triplet birth. Looking forward to your ideas.50
13.02.2019Tiler costs 200m² new construction42
12.06.2019New construction - What slope/incline must be accepted?22
17.03.2021Fill vertical joints 36.5 on the exterior wall behind pre-wall installation16
20.04.2021Shower slope in the wrong direction36
26.10.2021Remove the tiler and assign the work yourself or not?19
14.02.2022Painter and tiler evaluation11
31.01.2023House purchase built in 1995 vs. new construction long-term cost calculation35

Oben