Steel beam cantilevered as substructure for terrace - No structural analysis!

I just used the first online calculator I found. With IPE or HEA you won't get far, it will bend a lot and swing quite amusingly. HEB looks better in that regard. Note: At a pool party, several people could be dancing on the terrace or jumping into the water at the same time. The load is significantly higher than just the weight of the people. But please ask a structural engineer!!

Thank you for all your answers.


Anyone familiar with pool construction knows what is possible and what is not in this field.
For you and possibly all other readers with question marks regarding this topic. An underground roller shutter can be installed in several ways. In my case, only the deflection pulley and the roller shutter itself are permanently underwater. Everything else is in a dry area where no drop of water reaches. In addition, there are, of course, nozzles in the shaft to circulate the water and keep it moving. So no worries here ;)


As described, the steel beam is to be fully concreted from all sides to later tile the entire structure. The wooden deck will then be placed on top of that.
I am, of course, aware that I will have to replace the wooden deck (overall a terrace 15 meters long) after x years.
Regarding the integration, I theoretically have 5 meters of space on the left side and 80 cm on the other side. However, I think a support of 30 cm on both sides should be sufficient here. We have a 4-meter cantilever steel beam in our house on the ground floor with a built floor above it resting only 20 cm on the support (the structural engineer calculated the whole thing).



What is the name of the site with the calculator? I have found many sites but none where I can actually select the beam type.

Apparently, I can’t avoid consulting a structural engineer for such a trivial matter after all.
I thought it would be easy to get an answer here without requiring someone to be held liable for it o_O

What is the name of the site with the calculator?

I don't remember anymore, I closed the tab. I don't know whether the site is trustworthy or if the result could be accurate. Something like that only lulls you into a false sense of security. Especially if you want to surround it thinly with 2cm of concrete, the first question is what maximum deflection the structure is allowed to have at all?? I think you will definitely need a structural engineer for that. Maybe 10mm deflection is enough for the concrete and tiles to crack. It also has to be weather-resistant. Are 2cm enough? Sounds like little to me, but I have no idea about such things. It would be easier to have a visible beam and directly put the wood on it, then the deflection would be less critical.

Hello,

I can give you the following tips since I am a designer myself, but not a structural engineer:

1. For spans of 3.8m, every HEA / HEB / HEM / IPE profile with a height of 100mm will already sag 5-10mm under its own weight without any additional loads.
2. The support width on the side of 30/40/50cm has no influence on the deflection.
3. 20mm of concrete all around does not adhere to steel, hammer finish or not.
4. Due to the deflection mentioned in point 1, the concrete will crack again and fall off.
5. To get the deflection under control, you need more static height of your profile, which goes to the power of four in the calculations. From my point of view, this could result in a hollow profile welded together from four sheets because there is no finished one on the market with these wall thicknesses. Hot-dip galvanizing is of course mandatory. Attach plaster carrier boards with countersunk screws and tile them. So yes, you need a structural engineer for "such a simple component"!

This really small height of 80-100mm will break your neck. Is there a way to create more height for this beam? Constructively raise the edge all around to get an even top edge again? From a height of 200mm onwards, the world of this beam looks much easier.

Your idea of delivering a finished profile from the market and installing it does not work. How do you even want to fully / all around concretize the steel profile on site / in the garden? Is there a crane available to unload from the truck that lifts the steel profile over the house into the garden? How will the steel profile then be lifted exactly over the pool from the provisional concrete table in the garden?

Find a steel construction company that has its own structural engineer in house and have them calculate first. Then you will see what else needs to be changed constructively to realize your wishes.