Set the heat pump correctly

Hello dear forum community,

for several months now we have been living in our single-family house (150 m² living space). We have underfloor heating everywhere and heat with a brine-water heat pump (supported by heat recovery from the exhaust air system).

Because we have a photovoltaic system on the roof, we decided against a second meter (high/low tariff) and run the heating through the "normal" meter to use as much self-produced electricity as possible.
Therefore, of course, I do not have an exact overview of the heating consumption. With the current subzero temperatures (-10 to -12°C), our daily total consumption is about 30 kWh.

With that said, I would like to know if I can optimize the settings of the heat pump to possibly reduce consumption.
The hydraulic balancing was done after commissioning, and each room has thermostats (scale: 1-5).
The heat pump has an outdoor sensor; I can adjust the heating curve and the so-called parallel shift.

Initial values were: room temperature: 20°C, heating curve: 30°C.

There are instructions online about adjusting settings. It says: open all thermostats fully (to exclude interfering factors) and flatten the heating curve as much as possible so that the desired temperature is just reached.

But: should room thermostats always be set to the highest level? Then I cannot regulate upwards if I want to!?

What room temperature should ideally be reached at setting 3? 20°C? Then the heating curve at 30°C is probably about right. But then the actuators constantly have to close the valves and thereby "regulate down" because otherwise it would be too warm – and the generated heat is not used optimally? So better to lower the heating curve and open the room thermostat wide (5 in the bathroom, 4 in the living rooms)?

I am thankful for any tips!

Regards
James

Hello,

....There are instructions on the web for adjusting. It says: Open all thermostats fully (to exclude interfering factors) and flatten the heating curve until the desired temperature is just reached...

One should be cautious with such general statements. Most of these "recipes" come from anonymous advisors without any guarantee or warranty, not from professionals!
One repeats what others have recited None have professional training! Sometimes it is even recommended to remove the ERR from the manifold! Moreover, this circumvents/evades the energy saving ordinance/KfW!!!

...But: Should room thermostats always be set to the highest level? Then I can’t regulate upwards if I feel like it!?

Correct, just a fact! Ultimately, it’s not called ERR (individual room control) for nothing! The next problem area begins in the transition phase, for example when a living room with large, south-facing windows absorbs solar gains!

...Which room temperature should ideally be reached at level 3? 20°C? Then the heating curve at 30°C would be pretty much right...

Correct. Hopefully you will have an exact and proper planning/dimensioning for the system. In the heating load calculation, the room temperatures you desire are taken into account => Form V! This is duly considered in the heating surface dimensioning.
Subsequently, you can still temporarily allow deviating room temperatures via the ERR!

...But then the actuators must constantly close the valves....

No, they respond to the desired room temperature! For solid constructions and underfloor heating (wet system), simple ERR is completely sufficient due to the heat storage capacity of the entire system.
For lightweight construction and the energetically less favorable dry underfloor heating systems, PI controllers would be more appropriate!

Best regards

... Take a reference room. For us, it is the bathroom, which the technician recommended to us. It also makes sense, since you like it warm after showering or bathing. Set the thermostat in this room to full power. The rest regulates itself based on this room....

A somewhat strange recommendation

v.g.