Screed or tiles with a concrete look

So new here and already a few questions....

We are ripping up the entire floor and want to install underfloor heating.... now we want a parquet floor in the living room and in all other rooms including bathrooms/kitchen/dining area a floor with a concrete look.
Now my question, I would really love a polished screed (except for the expansion joints) for a nice homogeneous appearance (however, acquaintances and also two craftsmen have expressed concerns about cracks etc.)
I don’t want to be seen as resistant to advice but I also don’t want to give up entirely, after all, you see such floors in all kinds of locations.... alternatively, I have (admittedly somewhat reluctantly) looked at concrete tiles.... what bothers me is you always see that they are tiles, if not at the joint then at this recurring pattern.... and I want the floor to look kind of concrete-like with shadows and stains etc. (I hope it’s understandable what I’m trying to say)

So a question to the professionals.... do you think it makes sense with the screed/ do you possibly have an alternative or are tiles really the most sensible option?
Oh, ceiling height is from 2.50m upwards

I’ll upload a few pictures....
So far only the laminate floor has been removed (which was laid in especially for sale)

Thanks to all

Hello "DieScholz`ens".
Your question is quite easy to answer. With "Aufhacken" it probably won't be done. For a warm water-based underfloor heating system, it will be necessary to replace the screed. However, you should plan for a greater build-up height than previously installed. Especially since we can assume that "anno tubac" at least the insulation layer thicknesses, if not even the insulation material, did not meet today's requirements.
I would forgo a visible screed because installing one requires expertise from the screed installer and possibly a large tolerance on the part of the builder.
And I know what I am talking about (or writing)!
My suggestion is to install a new heated screed based on calcium sulfate flowing screed, sand it, prime and fill it with an appropriate (stress-free) filling compound, and then apply a design covering, which is also available in concrete decor (e.g. JOKA).
The look today is so excellent that even a professional first needs to check to recognize what is actually laid on the floor in front of them.
Due to the slim build-up, the necessarily greater screed thickness will not be completely compensated, but every millimeter should be considered here because of the connection points to adjacent components.
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Regards and good luck: KlaRa

There is also the option of applying concrete plaster (Beton Ciré) and sealing it accordingly. It should be clear, however, that none of this is cheap.

Hello,

Thank you for the answers, beforehand by removing the floor, you meant the old screed and yes, it should be a water-based underfloor heating.
I have also come across these design floors several times, but couldn’t warm up to them (why I can’t say exactly).

Concrete plaster wouldn’t crack then?

Regarding bargains... well (feeling-wise) everything I like is somehow always in the upper price range (it’s really like being hexed), even a polished screed (which sounds cheap) costs 120 EUR/sqm. (we have almost 100 sqm or 65 sqm without the small rooms)
Even epoxy resin floors, and then I miss the concrete look, are all in the upper price range.

I will now take a closer look at these vinyl floors (can they also be used directly in the shower?).

It would be important to us (that’s the wish) that there are only 2 floors installed in the house, namely a wood parquet and as a contrast something industrial like a floor in concrete look.
If it’s tiles or similar, we want the joints barely visible and no repeating pattern (you know what I mean?).

Attached are 2 examples that don’t please us now

These would be the tiles we have in mind now.....as an alternative, since they come closest.

Sorry, I know I’m a bit difficult about this

Hello questioner. Screeds are primarily intended to serve as a load distribution layer. This applies to all installation types except for a bonded screed. And: the screed surface must always be protected. In residential construction by a top covering, in industrial construction by a surface protection such as sealing or coating. That is also why so-called "exposed screeds" are expensive. This screed meets several conditions that a screed otherwise does not have to meet or cannot meet. If the new top covering you have in mind is not supposed to show joint patterns, well, then none of the covering tiles visible in the attached photos can meet this requirement. Anyone who does not see the joints there must keep their eyes closed. These large panel formats will certainly be fixed onto a carrier material. That means: a very high flatness of the substrate is mandatory (but this has to be paid for as a special service). Also, PVC plank formats (so-called unikat floors) cannot be installed in shower areas. This is not possible because water will penetrate the substructure via the (unprotected) edges of the covering. Then design screeds? Caution! This is a trade for which you should definitely ask for reference projects from the craftsman beforehand. Unfortunately, these floors are quite expensive, that is true, but this is due to the necessary installation thickness of at least 3 mm and a high abrasion resistance. Certainly, it can be done cheaper, but you have to know that this saving must affect something somewhere. You are currently at a crossroads: Either it is cheap, but neither beautiful nor durable, or it is expensive, but then you will enjoy a successful, abrasion-resistant floor for the next years. Alternatives? There are none. Especially the wet-stressed shower area (with alternative sealing) represents a high demand on the trade, which not every standard covering can meet!! --------------------------------- Regards: KlaRa