Screed drying time, cost estimates

Hello,

I need to have a complete screed laid in the bathroom ~3x3.5m (~10m²) and an extension of the existing screed in two other rooms because the knee wall is shifting further outward due to dormer windows.
The screed extension would be ~3x1m (3m²) and ~7x1m (7m²).
In addition, there is the filling of a wall that was torn out 3x0.11m (0.3m²).
As far as I can assess, the rest of the apartment has cement screed.
The build-up consists of some mats (I am not an expert) that appeared to be 2cm thick with 5cm of screed above.

I assume the new screed will therefore also be cement screed?
How long do I need to allow for it to dry?
After what time can I safely walk on the screed and carry out further renovations such as plastering walls, painting, and similar work?

After what time can I start tiling the bathroom without doing any measurements?

After what time can I start laying a floating floor (HDF vinyl with vapor barrier foil) without doing any measurements?

Since screed will only be partially laid outside the bathroom, is it no problem to continue renovating on the other side of the room the day after the screed is laid?

I want to avoid idle times as much as possible but also have enough time for the screed to dry properly.

Can I, except for the bathroom, extend the screed in other ways to avoid long drying times (empty conduits for electrical and heating pipes are laid in the floor)?

In the groove where the wall once was, I originally wanted to lay one or two empty conduits for electricity.
Is this possible at all or is the groove with max. 15cm too narrow?

Do I have cheaper alternatives (except in the bathroom) that I, as a DIYer, could consider for extending the screed?
It should then be just as sensible or more sensible than "classic" screed.

Can you roughly say what it could/should/may cost (20m² screed), so as a rough guideline?

Since I will tile the bathroom myself, where can I borrow a measuring device to be on the safe side and only start tiling when the screed is really dry?

€: There is no underfloor heating anywhere

Hello,
here is my layman's opinion:

After how much time can I start tiling the bathroom without taking a measurement?
After how much time can I start installing a floating floor (HDF vinyl with vapor barrier foil) without taking a measurement?

I would always play it safe and have a measurement done (or do it yourself). A guideline can be the so-called foil test (Google: foil test screed).

Since screed is only partially laid except in the bathroom, is it okay to continue renovating on the other side of the room the day after the screed is laid?

No, you can continue there without any problems.

Except for the bathroom, can I extend the screed in other ways to avoid long drying times (empty conduits for electrical and heating pipes are installed in the floor)?

There is also the so-called dry screed (you can google it too). That should also be suitable for your bathroom.

Do I have cost-effective alternatives (except for the bathroom) that I could consider as a DIYer to extend the screed?
It should be just as sensible or more sensible than "classic" screed.

See above.

Can you roughly say what it could/should/must cost (20m² screed), so a rough guideline?

You would also need to know the thickness of the screed to calculate the volume. But you can manage that. Prices for ready-mixed screed can be found in the online shops of the major hardware stores.

Since I will tile the bathroom myself, where can I borrow a measuring device to be on the safe side and only tile when the screed is really dry?

Tile specialty stores, tilers or screed layers should be equipped with such devices.

From me only the following additional tips:
- there are additives that make it possible during bathroom renovation to significantly shorten the usual drying times (which are rarely possible or desired when the space is inhabited) to a few days. This certainly also has disadvantages and is more expensive, but it is frequently done in practice, as my contractor told me. I have not yet noticed any disadvantages, however, I have not had the silicone joints done yet, so that everything can settle first if necessary. In addition, the floor tiles were delayed by a few days because initially a lower slip resistance class was delivered and the tiles I wanted had to be reordered.
- I was strongly advised against patching cement screed during my bathroom renovation because cracks would appear at the joints. I had the screed completely redone in both rooms (guest WC and bathroom). Perhaps in my bathroom this was also related to the installed underfloor heating, which actually had too low a build-up height. The additional advantage of redoing it for me was that I could now also have the heating pipes laid into the level-access shower.

Thanks for the information.

:
I don’t want a walk-in shower.
What do you mean by the heating pipes? As far as I know, that is always possible if the screed is newly laid, right?

To get a rough idea of what might be suitable for me, whether the screed should be laid "liquid" by a professional or dry in self-construction.
In the bathroom as well as the small section, I am currently on the concrete floor. This is mostly level. Heating and wastewater pipes and one or two empty conduits for electrical cables will be laid at that spot.
So far, I have only gathered rough information about dry screed. As far as I understand, a leveling compound is also applied there to create a flat/straight "starting level".
Is this compound applied directly on the concrete floor and thus surrounds the wastewater, heating pipes, and also the empty conduits?
Do I then not need any of those mats that are supposed to reduce heat and impact sound on the concrete ceiling?

What kind of compound is that, anyway, that is laid/processed there? I have only seen one video so far, and it looked "soft" or not hardening. Does that mean the dry screed panels lie on a soft base?

If I think about it...
The depth of 1m is reduced once over the length of 7 meters by the width of the radiators (which I currently don’t have on hand).
Let’s just assume 15cm for now. That leaves 0.85m. Later, part of the sofa will stand there and load the floor.
Heavier furniture is almost ruled out because windows and radiators are installed along the entire 7-meter length. So the sofa is actually not optimal there anyway...
What does it look like if the dry screed panels, which are about 1 meter wide, are loaded at the edge? Is there a risk of breakage or something similar?
No idea...
On the small section of 3 meters length, the kitchen will stand later, for example. The load there will probably be negligible? Likewise, how level the surface actually is won’t be so important since the kitchen will be adjusted on the feet anyway?

So the more I think about it, the more I tend to opt for dry screed since these are only small areas and it will probably be much cheaper for me overall.

I just don’t quite understand some basics, like this leveling compound and how it works with heat and impact sound insulation. Just as well as the load-bearing capacity, which because of structural conditions at the spots where the screed is newly laid will simply not reach the level of a full bookshelf or something similar.

:
I do not want a walk-in shower.
What do you mean by the heating pipes? As far as I know, this is always possible if you have the screed relaid?

My bathroom originally had a shower and a tub. There was no screed or underfloor heating underneath, it was only in the rest of the room. Originally, I thought about patching the screed to install the walk-in shower where the tub and shower tray used to be. Then I could have heated the floor there electrically at best. Because I had the screed completely redone, I was able to extend the warm water underfloor heating to the rest of the room (including the entire shower and access) as the heating circuits were completely relaid.