Number of required spots (Halox) and which ones?

You need less than you think - you will hardly ever turn them on in the living room in the evening, too uncomfortable. Better have enough sockets in every corner and, if necessary, some connected to a light switch. That will be the lighting you sit under in the living room in the evening, not the spots.

Do you really want spots over the dining table? That tends to give more the charm of a train station restaurant. I would reconsider.

In the entrance area: a row of spots in the middle and two in the wardrobe. Possibly consider a mirror with lighting (also switched by a normal light switch), it creates nicer light.

You really only use the spots when the room should be fully lit, even with a dimmer. We also have spots (but not recessed ones, rather low-voltage spots that are very flat on the ceiling) and we hardly use them, even though the light is actually quite nice. A few spots we could have really done without now that we live here. In the future, I would be very sparing with them.

You really want spotlights above the dining table? That usually gives more the charm of a train station restaurant. I would think twice about it.

My wife also wanted it like that during the planning. Her reasoning was that you would be more flexible with the placement of the table, and if you have a birthday party, nothing would be in the way. But I was able to assert myself, and now a pendant light will go there. It looks more harmonious and cozy. (My opinion)

We also have spotlights in the living room, but only around the edges. In the hallway centered, and in the kitchen and bathroom a few more for brightness. All dimmable.

Whether it is perfect, too bright, or too dark, I will see when the light is turned on. But I am still a bit flexible because of the GU 10 socket.

Do recessed panels bring you so much more aesthetics than the ultra-thin normal LED panels? For the recessed panels, you need expensive HaloX cans in the ceiling (at least €60 each) plus the LED panels, which also protrude a few millimeters. However, the surface-mounted variants are only max. 20mm thick with almost the same look, but overall considerably cheaper. Or am I missing another advantage of the recessed version?

No idea. We like it better, that was the most important thing for us.

We can't find any lamps we like, so this is best for us.

Less is more, as Climbee already wrote. No one needs full illumination.

Hello,
as Climbee already wrote, I wouldn't just install spots everywhere.
I did my lighting plan myself and spent quite some time on it.
One should not underestimate the electrical planning and the costs involved.

In our house, the spots are installed in the hallways, bathroom, and kitchen.
But we have several lighting groups in some areas.

Rough key points for lighting planning:

-The furniture must be finalized 1:1 before starting with the electrical planning.
In my opinion, this is the necessary foundation for electrical planning.
Simply sketching it on site in the shell construction is not an option.

-Divide the lighting into several groups if possible.
Basic lighting, task lighting, and decorative lighting.

Interior

-For basic lighting, make sure the lamp does not necessarily have to hang in the center of the room, but rather depending on how the furniture is arranged. For example, if there are tall cabinets along one wall, the center of the room is shifted. So don't measure the center from wall to wall, but from the tall cabinet to the opposite wall.

-In the living room, instead of one lamp centered in the room, maybe plan the lamp above the coffee table.

-In the dining room, the pendant lights above the dining table should hang about 60-70 cm above the table. Choose the light beam angle so that the lights do not cause glare.

-In the office as well as in children's rooms, think of additional diffuse and glare-free task lighting.
A shiny table with a light source directly above is definitely not a good idea.

-Additional lighting at the beds (also in children's rooms)

-When positioning lamps, consider curtains. They take about 20 cm space. Measure from the curtain, not from the wall.

-Stair lighting as wall recessed spots, wall lamps, or LED strips under the stairs.

-In the garage, the light sources are better distributed if they are not installed above the cars, but in the walkways between them.


Do not forget:
-Mirror lighting from the front (theater mirror), otherwise you get ugly shadows on your face.
-Niche lighting (decorative)
-Picture lighting
-Lighting for the shelves in the shower
-Christmas lighting
-Cooking island lighting


Exterior

-Driveway lighting
-House lighting with motion detectors
-Terrace lighting (including e.g. terrace floor)
-Garden shed lighting

Miscellaneous
-Pay attention to the beam angle of the lamps
-Different color temperatures for certain rooms (e.g., living room rather comfortable evening light with 2700-3000 Kelvin. Office and mirror lighting rather cooler color temperatures.)
-CRI value of the light sources. It indicates the color quality (accuracy) of the light.
The higher, the better.
-Depending on the requirement, some rooms/areas should be lit brighter and others not.
There are also guidelines and tables for this.
I don’t want 400 lux in the bedroom but I do want it on the kitchen work surface.

In the end, you do the lighting planning for yourselves.
You have to feel comfortable.
If you think you need to install spots everywhere, then so be it.
The main thing is that you like it! That is the most important!

Regards
AMNE3IA

However, it is often difficult to choose different light temperatures. We have a very open design and you can see from the living/dining area into the hallway. In the hallway, I have 4000K, in the living/dining area 3000K. You can see the difference and it is quite an adjustment. Here is the difference: 2700K 4000K