Lighting recommendation for roof overhang

  • Erstellt am 2022-08-18 22:46:51

Araknis

2022-08-24 11:23:08
  • #1

Oh, I see. Yes, in that context, the LED strip is completely irrelevant.
I wouldn't go below 32 A in the garage. The 11 kW wallbox can already draw 16 A if desired, and then you might also want to connect a larger electrical device. For us, for example, that's always the log splitter or something similar.
 

netzplan

2022-08-25 20:29:28
  • #2
According to the online calculators, with a maximum 3% loss and 26m length, a 4mm² should be sufficient. That means, with 6mm² or 10mm² I would be on the safe side for an 11KW wallbox. The rest, like the garage door motor, interior lighting, exterior lighting, 3-4 sockets should then fit. Would I have any disadvantages with 16mm² (except the extra cost for the copper cable)?

You never know if the charging power of the wallbox might increase in the future or if you equip a garage with photovoltaic modules.
 

Araknis

2022-08-25 21:15:11
  • #3
More is always possible and has no disadvantages per se! It should just be properly secured and the potential capacity should be available in the building. You don’t want someone to come up with stupid ideas at some point. Depending on the installation method, you could even push 63 A through the 16 mm².
 

netzplan

2022-08-25 22:08:52
  • #4
How would the installation method affect:

4m surface-mounted
20m empty conduit/Kabuflex or KG pipe in the ground (probably KG pipe not allowed)
2m flush-mounted
---
26m
 

Araknis

2022-08-25 23:25:02
  • #5
DIN VDE 0298-4. I would take the lowest value.



 

Stephan—

2022-08-26 09:11:44
  • #6
I had a similar "problem" as you. Garage is 36cm on the side and the house/garage canopy cantilevers 1.50m. In the canopy, I had Halox boxes installed from the concrete plant, where spots will be placed.

Do you still plan to insulate your garage?
We insulated all around the cantilever (garage), otherwise a thermal bridge would have formed and there would have been a "mold risk" in the corner inside the garage at the top near the wall. —> if I had known that beforehand, I wouldn’t have let it "hang over". So much for the backstory. Due to the insulation, the spots there have now been removed (they wouldn’t have worked anyway at 40cm in the end) and we pragmatically left cables in the wall for upside-down lamps etc.
 

Similar topics
08.01.2014Where do we put the house and garage?10
03.02.2014Cost estimate single-family house with garage11
30.07.2014Bungalow with 140 sqm and garage in the floor plan13
05.08.2014First offer, 157m2 with basement, KFW 70, garage14
05.11.2014Garage: design possibility of the roof, appearance14
11.03.2015Planning optimal arrangement of house, garage, and driveway13
06.05.2015Draft single-family house with garage/carport - please provide evaluation22
11.06.2015Single-family house with a granny flat & garage14
27.08.20152 full floors, passage to garage, utility room under stairs25
11.09.2015Building a garage on the boundary is not possible according to the architect.11
19.07.2019TG parking spot: Best position for 230V socket and wallbox11
13.08.2020Is energy storage also unprofitable for electric cars? Costs of wallbox + storage79
20.06.2021KfW Program 440 - Charging Stations for Electric Cars - Wallbox26
28.10.2021Which wallbox for electric car18
24.02.2022Photovoltaic system air-water heat pump - profitability single-family house KFW55EE95
07.07.2022Optimization of electrical planning for a 140 m² semi-detached house23
28.11.2022Do you need LAN cables in the garage?107
29.09.2022Position recommendation for wallbox in double garage42
31.07.2023Connection of wallbox in the garage23
28.06.2024Supplementary offer electrical planning for the Aachen area20

Oben