Is the window installation correct? Is it wind-driven rainproof?

A house is sealed if a small component is not sealed? Somehow that should still be part of the house.

Insulation wedge under the window sill or second sealing layer – all luxury.

No, I’m not going to use the example of a hole in the bucket now,...

But as a client, I would consult the site manager and ask about the execution details. I could imagine that he doesn’t even know what he is supposed to oversee. Possibly, the window supplier has never even seen a drawing.

thanks for your quick assessment. But by the light gray I don’t mean the darker sealing slurry, rather the lighter one, which seems to be some kind of silicone-like substance and was applied afterwards.

Compressible foam tapes are of course not pulled around corners,...

I will address that.

From the inside there is a vapor barrier on a smooth coat (not glued to the porous stones)

Inside, a sealing tape is glued on, which represents the wind tightness.

required and on the outside a rain tightness....

Precisely here I see the problem that the rain tightness is not given.

When I look at the installation instructions from the window sill manufacturer, it only says that "If a permanent seal over a sealing plane cannot be guaranteed, an execution with a second sealing plane must be carried out."
I conclude that a second sealing plane must be implemented, since the plaster edge profile is only slipped on and only the corners are sealed with a "tape." Water can still run in from the sides.

...the exterior of the interior wall is coated 2-3 times. After installing the floor-to-ceiling windows, these are also coated except for the already coated wall/board/foundation. The house must be sealed all around and not every small component individually.

How do you solve this or how do you "coat" the windows, if the windows are prefabricated at the factory, floor-to-ceiling with lateral roller shutter rail and lower aluminum strip? For example, I already see a "workmanship gap" made at the lower corners from the factory.

Insulation wedge under the window sill or second sealing layer—all luxury.

How would the thermal bridge be eliminated and tightness solved in our case?

But as a client, I would consult the construction manager and ask about the execution details. I could imagine that he doesn’t even know what he intends to supervise. Possibly the window supplier never saw a drawing either.

I plan to, unfortunately, I somehow already suspect the answer: "We've always worked like this and never had problems."

I do not mean the darker sealing slurry with the light gray, but the lighter one, which seems to be something silicone-like and came afterwards.

I cannot assign that; it looks too paste-like to me for silicone. I do not know the entire wide range of stuff that is believed to be used as a substitute when reading the installation instructions is considered too tedious and/or one wants to stick to the method "it's always been done this way." In the past, people always did it that way, but now it is supposed to be done properly for a few years, so afterwards people spray or smear some kind of "that'll do" on it. You have to feel sorry for the laymen: they know that their suspicion of sloppiness against the schlumps most likely has a kernel of truth – but they lack expert knowledge to refute the dismissals...

How do you handle this or how do you "paint" the windows when the windows are prefabricated at the factory, floor-to-ceiling with a side roller shutter track and a lower aluminum strip? For example, I can already see the "trade gap" produced by the factory at the lower corners.

The house is already painted 2-3 times before installing the window; this is specified by our putty and is written on the buckets with this putty. The representative who recommended this to us also said that. After installing the windows: If the window extends down to the foundation, this is sealed with fabric tape and Sturudur at the openings and painted up to the already existing layer of putty. If the window does not extend to the foundation but only to the raw ceiling, the empty space between the window and the foundation must be filled and then painted. This should then create a complete seal for the house. But normally the window installer should say how to make "their" windows tight. We masons only carry this out. Edit: It should only have to go down to the bottom edge of the roller shutter track/aluminum strip.

@

look into the respective approvals of the products. However, since there is no WDVS, possibly refer to the RAL recommendation. Taking out some of the foam now to make a smooth finish and then gluing the driving rain protection to the frame is, of course, a game,... but not your problem.

What kind of site manager is that, not an architect or civil engineer?

I recommend that you have an appraiser come. Such matters are difficult to clarify to the smallest detail over the Internet. He can probably also better explain to your site manager what is wrong and how it should be done correctly.