Installing solid wood planks floating - how does it work?

Question to the forum: Who knows a good recipe for rolled roast? Answer 1: Why rolled roast? Just make pizza, it has proven itself and tastes delicious. Answer 2: Take a look in a cookbook

Something like your first question is called thinking along. With your example, it is now hard to compare. I would rather be glad if someone asks whether it is for underfloor heating because floating installation is then not recommended at all.

Something like in your first question is called thinking along. It is now hardly comparable with your example. I would rather be glad if someone asks whether it is for underfloor heating because floating installation is then not recommended at all.

The question about underfloor heating was the first question that came up - unfortunately unanswered

Hello Sigi, thanks for your reply. I had written that I had intensively dealt with the question beforehand. It is clear to me that floorboards were screwed onto a substructure in the past. Nowadays, this is usually only done if a load-bearing screed is missing - or if one absolutely wants to avoid the adhesive. But it costs considerable room height. It is also clear that in new buildings, gluing is the most common and sustainable installation method. I think these are commonplaces. That you brought the humidity data back into the discussion might be quite helpful for some readers.

I had already mentioned the clip method in my initial post. It is said to be very expensive; do you have any information on who offers such a thing – I could inquire there. I have never heard of an adhesive mat. Do you perhaps have a manufacturer for that? I would also like to get some information about it.

However, I actually wanted neither clips nor a mat, but to lay it like click parquet. You write that, in such a case, you would only glue the short sides. As I said, I have never heard of that. Neither that you should glue the long sides, nor that you should not. But usually, click parquet can be glued on BOTH short AND long sides. Well, this is prevented by the three layers and moves less.

My timber dealer, anyway, has no opinion on floating installation (let alone an instruction manual). He says he knows people who apparently have done it once. He has no more information on it.

And if the type of bonding is decisive for any of my three questions: For solid floorboards, a random bond is usually common due to the varying lengths.

Oh, and to the others: No, no underfloor heating is planned. Please excuse my delay. By the way: With 20mm oak with a thermal resistance value of about 0.2 m²K/W (+ maybe 0.01 for the adhesive), gluing would also be suboptimal. If it’s solid wood, you take a maximum of 15mm. But whom am I telling that?

Regards michael

Good evening Michael,

Regarding the stapling method:
Parador offers something like that, you can inform yourself there.
Regarding the adhesive mat:
Take a look at Elastilon, I believe the price per square meter is around 10 euros, whether Parador currently offers something like that is unknown to me at the moment.
Since, as I wrote, solid wood flooring only works in width, I would glue the end sides for durability.
In my opinion, with the click version, gluing is completely unnecessary, at least in living areas.

One thing is clear, if the floor is to have tongue and groove, you will have to decide either on the method of fixed bonding, with adhesive mat or with staples, everything else will not work. And gluing the floorboards lengthwise inevitably leads to the floor cracking sooner or later.
That would mean that you should then consider a 3-layer parquet with click system if you cannot decide on any of the above methods.

Oh, thanks, Sigi - richer by a few ideas again, I took a look at the installation with the clipping method - I don’t know. We’re talking about 20mm oak in 14cm width. Can that be tamed by a stainless steel clip? The clip has to be made of thin material, otherwise the boards rest on it. Also: as I understand it, you are tied to the clips at Parador with their click system (yes, even with solid wood - but that only has to do with installation friendliness). And then we are priced beyond good and evil. There are apparently other clipping systems - generally, clipping is rather something for professional installers (as it seems to me). Elastilon looks simple (in the video) and probably is, when installing multi-layer parquet with veneer. But what if the board is not 100% flat? Then it moves or can’t even be glued. At least you hardly find any experiences on the internet. For me, a disqualifying criterion. When gluing with parquet adhesive, I just fear that as a layman I will have problems if the boards are twisted. Gluing multi-layer finished parquet with veneer would of course not be a problem for me. But I think maybe I can still hope for substantial contributions from "nordanney" and from "HausAlex." The vehemence of their follow-up questions leads me to conclude that they still have significant input regarding my questions – now that all their questions are clarified. Regards michael

Whether these are substantial tips, I cannot say

Unfortunately, I only have experience with parquet, albeit as a country house plank. Installed floating with impact sound insulation (Click system from Haro), I was not satisfied. The installation was trouble-free and held perfectly, but the sound when walking was/is significantly worse compared to glued parquet.
Now we have glued everything (Bona R848 adhesive) and are much more satisfied. The adhesive is completely odorless, the parquet looks like solid wood planks. Haro is still our first choice. Perhaps this is a processing alternative for you. I'll take a photo.