Floor plan - reaching the boundary distance at the house corner

  • Erstellt am 2022-02-09 09:47:04

Thilo1979

2022-02-09 09:47:04
  • #1
We are planning a two-story detached house with an attached bungalow on a large plot with nevertheless tight building boundaries (the plot is long and trapezoidal, becoming wider towards the south, the building window is at the narrow end).
The architect has received the building application back from the district for revisions – because we have planned high ceilings on both floors, we reach a gutter height of 6.66m and must therefore maintain a boundary distance of 3.33m instead of the 3 meters.
The simplest way to achieve this would be to shift the entire building completely up to the building boundary to the south, practically into the wider part of the trapezoid – the disadvantage would be that the garden becomes 3 meters smaller, and our plan for a later winter garden on the south side would be made impossible because it would then be outside the building boundaries.
Alternatively, the architect suggested "recessing the northeast corner of the house on the upper floor" and then attaching a flat roof at this point on the concrete slab of the ground floor – at least visually, I find that questionable, and possibly also as a thermal bridge or a later point of moisture ingress.
On the ground floor at this point is a bathroom, which we hardly managed to plan with a usable area at all, so simply making the house smaller on both floors at this corner is not an option.
Finally, there would of course be the option to ask the neighbors (who are nice and would probably agree) whether they would register an easement (Baulast) for their property (what are the “usual” conditions if they were to ask for payment?).

Do you have any good ideas on how to make the corner of the house "flatter" or how else to meet the boundary distance without shifting everything 3 meters to the south to gain the 30 centimeters at the slanted building boundary?

Upper floor, whose corner would have to be “recessed”:


Section of the house viewed from said “corner,” the too high corner circled here:


Plot/building window:
 

Würfel*

2022-02-09 09:59:08
  • #2
You have an almost 20 meter wide house and then want to push in a corner or move the whole thing 3 m forward? There must be another way. Unfortunately, I don’t see any complete floor plans, so it’s not really possible to judge. But gaining 33 cm on 20 m should really be possible in another way.
 

K a t j a

2022-02-09 10:14:13
  • #3
You have to really come clean and show the complete plans - everything. Otherwise, it can't be assessed. Is the attic being converted or can it be lowered?
 

Thilo1979

2022-02-09 11:51:00
  • #4


This shouldn’t be about keeping secrets now, I just assumed it would be completely unnecessary for the question and would rather prevent members from answering if complete floor plans including the bungalow etc. were posted, even though the problem only relates to the northeastern corner of the house. The attic is not being converted but is planned as storage space, which, since we would have a second attic above the bungalow accessible from the upper floor, could basically be omitted if that would help somehow. The southern roof slope should remain as it is (ideal photovoltaic angle), everything else would already be fine if shifting could be prevented.

Attic:


Upper floor:
 

K a t j a

2022-02-09 21:43:50
  • #5
Yes, now the ground floor and the floor plan of the bungalow are missing. Everything, I mean everything. It's about whether and where one can save 33 cm, right? What about the ceiling heights in the upper floor, are they that important? Of course, the easiest thing would be to lower the ceiling there and adjust the knee wall up to the 6 m. Just by the way, which bathroom do the child and the guest use?
 

Zubi123

2022-02-10 08:04:55
  • #6


You do have a roof terrace on the south side as well. How were you able to relieve your concerns about thermal bridges and moisture there? ;-)

So, without knowing the ground floor, I find shifting (not reducing) the entire upper floor to be a constructive approach. Then you even gain a roof overhang for the terrace on the upper floor.
 

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