bau-bau
2014-01-18 20:27:47
- #1
1.) Basement: Consider whether you want to position the window opposite the door in Basement 1 a bit more centrally, so that there is still space for normally deep shelves on the wall by the door. Unless the room already has a fixed usage.
2.) Garage: I was referring to the drive-through width of the gate. How wide is it there?
3.) How is the staircase planned if the front door is supposed to be 3m wide? In my opinion, 2.50m corridor width is enough, but clearly: the bigger, the more inviting. If you have another half meter in width to spare, then consider whether it makes more sense to extend the garage by that half meter.
4.) Since you have a basement and in your utility room only the washing machine and the things frequently used in daily life have to go, in my opinion 4sqm is enough, especially since you plan a sliding door, so no door opens inward and the utility room really has its full 4sqm. Many things that are not everyday items (tools, etc.) you will probably store in the basement, right?
5.) Dormers on the upper floor: Clearly, it’s a cost issue, but better to plan more now and maybe not finish one room yet or do some work yourself somewhere, than to regret it later. I know many people who wanted/had to save money and shortly afterwards regretted it bitterly or even had to pay twice later because during construction they thought "this will do like this!".
6.) Bay window: The question of whether 3.24m or 4m is a bit more complicated. My questions here: a) Will the dining table stand where it is currently drawn or should it move more INTO the bay window? b) If you widen the bay window on the bottom, then consequently also upstairs. But then the bathroom gets smaller, right? And that is a fundamental matter of how you want to design the upper floor now. I have to say, the more I think about it, I like my suggestion, even if it gets a bit more expensive because you then need dormers, yes. But that way the hallway on the upper floor would be brighter, you would also have a shared play corner for children or a reading corner, a small work corner (sewing machine, crafting, etc.) - whatever. You would have the option and could always adapt it to your needs, which in my eyes is better than this part of the house being fixed and forever assigned to the bedroom. Because later (when it belongs to the bedroom) you can no longer change it (or only at even more cost, since retrofitting dormers is more expensive, see what I already wrote above). Maybe find out what dormers with roller shutters would cost you, and then you can think more precisely based on the concrete numbers. Possibly leave out the little peak on the big bay window on top, make it straight (but nice), that way you save some money there and also the dormers become cheaper because they no longer need “peaks”.
7.) Exhaust hood: Depending on how “airtight” the house is built, you are not allowed to make holes in the exterior wall for exhaust hoods or vented dryers anymore, right, or am I mistaken?
2.) Garage: I was referring to the drive-through width of the gate. How wide is it there?
3.) How is the staircase planned if the front door is supposed to be 3m wide? In my opinion, 2.50m corridor width is enough, but clearly: the bigger, the more inviting. If you have another half meter in width to spare, then consider whether it makes more sense to extend the garage by that half meter.
4.) Since you have a basement and in your utility room only the washing machine and the things frequently used in daily life have to go, in my opinion 4sqm is enough, especially since you plan a sliding door, so no door opens inward and the utility room really has its full 4sqm. Many things that are not everyday items (tools, etc.) you will probably store in the basement, right?
5.) Dormers on the upper floor: Clearly, it’s a cost issue, but better to plan more now and maybe not finish one room yet or do some work yourself somewhere, than to regret it later. I know many people who wanted/had to save money and shortly afterwards regretted it bitterly or even had to pay twice later because during construction they thought "this will do like this!".
6.) Bay window: The question of whether 3.24m or 4m is a bit more complicated. My questions here: a) Will the dining table stand where it is currently drawn or should it move more INTO the bay window? b) If you widen the bay window on the bottom, then consequently also upstairs. But then the bathroom gets smaller, right? And that is a fundamental matter of how you want to design the upper floor now. I have to say, the more I think about it, I like my suggestion, even if it gets a bit more expensive because you then need dormers, yes. But that way the hallway on the upper floor would be brighter, you would also have a shared play corner for children or a reading corner, a small work corner (sewing machine, crafting, etc.) - whatever. You would have the option and could always adapt it to your needs, which in my eyes is better than this part of the house being fixed and forever assigned to the bedroom. Because later (when it belongs to the bedroom) you can no longer change it (or only at even more cost, since retrofitting dormers is more expensive, see what I already wrote above). Maybe find out what dormers with roller shutters would cost you, and then you can think more precisely based on the concrete numbers. Possibly leave out the little peak on the big bay window on top, make it straight (but nice), that way you save some money there and also the dormers become cheaper because they no longer need “peaks”.
7.) Exhaust hood: Depending on how “airtight” the house is built, you are not allowed to make holes in the exterior wall for exhaust hoods or vented dryers anymore, right, or am I mistaken?