Electrical sampling with builder preparation

Hello dear forum,
short and sweet: Next Monday the electrical sampling for the shell of our semi-detached house to be built will take place.
Basically, we have already thought about the basics (location of light points, light switches, motors, power outlets, network sockets), but I would like to clarify a few points before I have to deal with the probably rather unmotivated master electrician of the builder on Monday :)

[*]Preparation for wallbox: We would like to have the necessary connections (11 kW, 3-phase) prepared so that we can connect a wallbox in the future. So far, the wallbox is planned on the outer wall of the house (36er aerated concrete). Will the raw cables simply stick out of a hole or how is this implemented? In case I later want to install the wallbox not directly on the wall but further back in the garden, could I "extend" it?
[*]Network access point: Network sockets are of course planned in some rooms. Some single, some double (please don’t stone me for not having everything double right away, I can still upgrade that. I negotiated the number of sockets into the contract), some in aerated concrete, some in drywall. I have planned network sockets both in the hallway on the ground floor and on the upper floor to equip them with Ubiquiti PoE access points. I won't be able to install the device in the concrete ceiling anymore, so at least on the ground floor it is planned to mount it relatively high on the wall. Does anything have to be considered here or is the connection prepared like "normal" network sockets and then the flat access point is just plugged in? Between the upper floor and the attic is a wooden ceiling (not yet built), could I still plan to put the thing on the ceiling there or will the electrician laugh at me and say that is not possible?
[*]Network cabling: If I understood correctly, it works like this: The electrician lays in-wall cables to the sockets from inside. They end somewhere, hopefully in the utility room, and have to be wired into the patch panel there. Do I have to do this or is it included when you agreed with the builder on "installation of 10 network sockets"? Then from the patch panel one patch cable per in-wall cable goes into the switch, which is connected via patch cable to LAN1 of the Fritzbox.
[*]"Smart" roller shutter motors: All our roller shutters will be motorized, unfortunately I don’t see in the contract which motor. I would like to be able to control the roller shutters by app so that I can open/close everything upstairs from the couch downstairs. What makes the most sense here? Upgrade the motor directly to a "smart" one for a probably high price? Just make the switches "smart"? I also read that you can simply ask the electrician to make the hollowing behind the socket a bit deeper so that, if necessary, a 2.5 Shelly can be installed between the switch and the motor. Do electricians do that or are there problems regarding warranty? Are there other suggestions?
[*]Power for the garden: We would also like to have power in the garden area, for example where the shed or carport will be later. We don’t yet know 100% where the shed and carport will be, so we can’t tell the electrician precisely yet. How can something like that be prepared? Conduits are not flexible either.
[*]Intercom system: Our semi-detached house is on an amazing plot, about 55m from the street. Since the house in front is currently for sale and we don’t know what the buyers plan, there is currently no gate at the front. Surely there will be one in the future; should we have a conduit laid there already? A modern video intercom probably can’t be installed at the gate then, since there will be no internet connection there yet. Or could I have a network cable laid all the way to the front in a conduit and then connect a camera with the network cable?

It has become a bit more than planned, sorry.
I hope you can still help me a bit so that I can tell the electrician exactly what I want and not let myself be pushed around with statements like "no, you don’t do that".
Best regards

Regarding the wallbox etc. Just have empty conduits installed

Garden and gate system:

Have empty conduits installed. Better to go one size larger so that something can still be pulled through later.

The empty conduits do not need to have exact lengths but serve so that if you want to lay something between A-C, you don't have to tear up B (driveway, paving, beds...).

(Really don't skimp on the size.
At one point during the sewer construction, I skipped a branch for 5 €. And had to dig and tinker for several hours for the subsequent connection...)

But aren't the empty conduits then already fixed to a certain place? So they are already buried in the ground and then laid to a certain corner of the garden, or how can I imagine that? Or does empty conduit simply mean that a kind of protective layer is around the cable and then you put it in the ground when you know where it should go. I can't imagine that the developer would then bury empty conduits 20m into the ground, right?

Empty conduit.
Empty conduit.

Only a "hose" is laid in which a cable can then be pulled through if needed.
You can also pull the underground cable from A-C into the empty conduit and then lay the cable loose in the ground up to D.

For example, during the paving work, we had a cable integrated into the back support of the curb. (Then without empty conduit, directly the cable)
We didn't have to dig extra for that. And if we ever need a cable at the end of the garden, the whole lawn doesn't have to be dug up, only the existing cable has to be connected.

About the network. Distributed network sockets are definitely good. A double socket has the advantage that it doesn’t take up more space and depending on the situation you can often avoid using a switch. I am a fan of having the network cables installed in conduits, but for cost reasons this is often not done. You should discuss this with your electrician and he should also make sure that the cable can possibly be replaced later.

Where you distribute your network from must be firmly agreed upon with your builder or electrician. Don’t just rely on them finding a good spot for you. Now comes a fundamental question. Network cabinet 10" or 19", multimedia distributor or just nail everything to the wall? For me, the choice of patch panel depends on that. I guess if you don’t make any arrangements, your electrician will just nail a standard ideal part to the wall. Personally, I would have the network cables end with keystone modules at the patch panel. Then the cables can also be easily integrated into a network cabinet later. The cables must be long enough, which again must be agreed upon. Whether he uses keystone has to be discussed as well. Many still simply staple LSA, which isn’t bad either, but it has a few disadvantages in handling. If so, I would have both cable ends terminated, and the electrician should also create a test protocol for each connection. You connect the patch panel to a switch using patch cables and connect the switch to the router.

About the APs. If they are to be mounted on the wall and should be Unifi, I would opt for the in-wall APs, as they are designed exactly for wall mounting. The "saucers" from Unifi are designed for ceiling mounting. Look at the installation instructions for the APs. Then you can already get an idea of how to prepare the installation. From my point of view, a deep flush-mounted or electronics box. Then on the installation cable a keystone module without a carrier box. A short patch cable connects to the keystone module. Connect this to the access point and mount the access point over the box to cover it. How about WLAN in the garden? At least the outdoor access point should be prepared. If there are only up to three POE devices in the household, you can also work with POE injectors for power supply. Otherwise, buy a POW switch, which is also more expensive than a standard switch.

About the wallbox. A LAN cable should also be run to the wallbox. Many boxes have a LAN port to, for example, read charging statistics. Alternatively, there are boxes with WLAN, but then the outdoor access point comes into play again.

Very important: don’t just assume the electrician will do it. Discuss each point calmly and best to document everything in writing.