Controlled Residential Ventilation Vallox ValloPlus 350MV - Experiences, Manual?

You have installed split air conditioners, doesn't it make sense to use them specifically for dehumidifying? :)

You have installed split air conditioners, doesn’t it make sense to use them specifically for dehumidifying? :)

That is a good point. We also received the manuals for them yesterday. Let’s see if they can dehumidify specifically without cooling. But I think they can.

but still, such a system should (must?) be balanced? The controlled residential ventilation is designed and connected based on calculations (number of exhaust and supply air valves per room specifying the required air volumes). Then the valves are preset "by feel." Afterwards, the system should be balanced with an anemometer (usually takes 2 passes because of the iterative process => adjusting one valve changes the air volume in the others ...)

P.S. Our plumber also did not balance the system due to staff shortages but lent us the anemometer temporarily ;-) I am an amateur, that’s how I understood the explanations from our plumber...

P.P.S. I still do not understand the mystical labeling of the weird buttons of our controlled residential ventilation (Maico), but it is much more comfortable to adjust it via a web interface. Isn’t there such an interface for your system too? (-> download "Advanced IP-Scanner" for example from "heise," scan the network, and try to access the controlled residential ventilation with default login data published on the internet...)

but still, such a system should (must?) be balanced, right? The controlled residential ventilation is designed and connected according to calculations (number of exhaust and supply air vents per room specifying the target air volumes). Then the vents are preset "by feel". Afterwards, the system should be balanced with an anemometer (usually takes 2 passes because of the iterative process => one vent readjusted, air volume changes in others ...)

This is how an engineer might imagine it. But I have never seen that with the general contractor/main contractor/developer. I assume someone only borrows an anemometer and checks if the customer stubbornly complains about noise/drafts. Even then I would guess that >50% just lower the air exchange rate.

Do you mean the preheating coil? Does your controlled residential ventilation simply shut off when it’s freezing? Last winter, with the preheating coil, we had about 30 kWh of additional electricity consumption for preheating when it was freezing. I found that quite pleasant.

I would also check (have checked) the topic of the enthalpy heat exchanger again. This way, you can continue running on automatic in winter without dry damage to the body – at least if you close the windows after showering and hang your laundry inside.

We used to always run on automatic power through - even in winter. I start to worry about "too low humidity" when we drop below 50, currently I can't even get below 65.

I don't know about the preheating coil - in our settings it's called heating coil / reheating. But the plumber said we don't have that.

According to him, they have adjusted and calibrated the valves. That happened (like many things) in our absence, but if he didn't lie to me to my face (which I don't believe) they did it.
By now we also have a web interface for the ventilation, which is indeed easier than the menu in the basement, but it offers the same adjustment options.