Clinker directly on Ytong?

I just spoke with Town & Country and the agent sent me a sample certificate for a bungalow built in the usual manner instead of a KfW70 energy certificate as requested. However, I will ask him at the next appointment what the additional cost is for 365mm Ytong with a lambda value of 0.07. According to Ytong, this can theoretically achieve KfW55... I put the whole thing into the U-value calculator; it should work with the 300mm but only with the lambda value of 0.07... but I think more is better...

Now I still don't really know ^^ do I have to leave 1-2cm space between the Ytong and the facing brickwork, or can I stick it directly on like clinker slips?!

Many thanks in advance to Bauexperte for clarifying

Hello,

But I still don’t know more ^^ do I have to leave 1-2cm space between Ytong and facing brickwork or can I stick it directly like the clinker slips?!

Just use the search function with the term "Riemchen". Through that you will find, among other things, this thread:

Rhenish greetings

Read through completely ... Besides a lot of discussion way off topic, no new information ... I was aware that I can stick tiles directly onto the aerated concrete ... but what about real clinker bricks? To be honest, I'm a bit afraid that if the bare wall (unplastered aerated concrete) is followed by a 1-2 cm air gap and then the clinker, condensation might form between the clinker and the aerated concrete ... does anyone have experience with this?

Hello,

...but what about real clinker bricks? To be honest, I am a bit worried that when the bare wall (unplastered aerated concrete) is followed by a 1-2 cm air gap and then the clinker brick, condensation might form between the clinker and the aerated concrete... does anyone know about this?

In Germany, there is a DIN standard for everything, here 1053-1.

You don't necessarily need an air cavity; it can also be a cavity insulation. Drainage openings in the lowest brick course, and everything is fine; provided that the facade builders work carefully.

Air gap versus cavity insulation is a Jehovah topic, similar to centralized or decentralized ventilation systems.

Rhenish regards

Core insulation is actually exactly what we did not want because of pests, moisture, etc.

I will probably be the facade builder for the clinker myself or with support...

That's what I mean... with this material it is said "theoretically" no problem to put clinker directly on the aerated concrete. But do I have disadvantages because of that? Does the air gap bring advantages? Besides the fact that the inner masonry is safe from driving rain:

Masonry with cavity joint

Double-shell KLB masonry with cavity joint
consists of an outer facing brick shell that is directly connected to the inner load-bearing masonry shell. The cavity joint must be ≥ 2 cm and thus acts as a barrier against driving rain. It is recommended to plaster the outer side of the load-bearing shell before building the facing shell, or to build both shells simultaneously and fill the cavity joint layer by layer with fluid mortar. Both shells must additionally be connected with wire anchors. Attention: with different materials and varying thermal conductivities, tensions lead to building damage. From a building physics point of view (thermal and sound insulation), KLB masonry can be constructed monolithically, i.e., single-shell with plaster on both sides without problems. The construction of double-shell masonry is often dependent on regional and landscape conditions because the facade is not plastered but faced due to weather conditions.

Masonry with air gap

Double-shell KLB masonry with air gap
has very good building physics properties when executed correctly. Driving rain is reliably kept away from the inner shell by the outer shell. Different material stresses cause no problems. The air gap must be connected to the outside air through ventilation openings (ventilation bricks at the bottom, open head joints at the top), so that continuous ventilation ensures the removal of water vapor. The air gap must be executed with a thickness ≥ 60 < 150 mm. The outer shell must be built very carefully so that no mortar falls into the air gap. Both shells must be connected with wire anchors. The wire anchor must be installed according to regulations with a drip washer.

Masonry with air gap and insulation

Double-shell KLB masonry with air gap and insulation
is processed like double-shell masonry with an air gap. However, the air gap here only needs to be ≥ 4 cm thick. Since the total distance between both masonry shells may generally only be 15 cm, the insulation thickness is limited to 11 cm. The wire anchor must be installed in the same way. Besides the drip washer, it should have material clamping plates, especially for fiber insulation materials. The air gap must be connected to the outside air so that continuous ventilation ensures the removal of water vapor.

Masonry with cavity insulation

Double-shell KLB masonry with cavity insulation
consists of an inner load-bearing and an outer non-load-bearing masonry shell, between which up to 15 cm insulation material is installed without an air gap. In addition to panel-like insulation materials, suitable and approved loose-fill insulations are especially suitable as insulation material. The insulation layer is exposed to higher moisture stress compared to double-shell masonry with an air gap. Both shells must be connected by wire anchors. Drainage openings must be planned at the bottom to discharge any possible moisture accumulation.