Bathtub renovation from which material

When installing flush tiles, it is also important to note that the radii on an acrylic bathtub are quite large and the corners very rounded, which means the silicone joints will be wide. This is not visually appealing and also technically questionable. Since acrylic bathtubs always move under stress, the joint can crack unnoticed and water will happily flow under your tub.... Completely removing the old joint when renewing the joint (maintenance joint) is likely to be fun as well.

How is the bathtub actually supposed to be filled?

Does it have to be the acrylic tub? We were recommended steel by all the professional companies we spoke to, ideally with a tub carrier. That's how we did it, you can sit on the tub edge, no seams crack, everything is great!!!

: Then it probably depends on the tiler to cut out a nice rounded corner. Yes, I'm still pondering the "the tub moves" thing, whether that will actually be a problem. That's why the question was whether the shelf should be made with drywall; you could attach the wall rails to it and pull the tub against the drywall – it's quite a task instead of just carving a few Styrofoam elements. The tub will be filled via a surface-mounted faucet.

: I personally prefer to shower, but my wife bathes more and she had specific requirements for the tub shape, which unfortunately was only available as an acrylic version. Plus, for us it's the opposite, 4 doctors, 5 opinions. We were advised several times to go with acrylic instead of steel. Purely in terms of durability and stability, I would have preferred steel too, but there was simply nothing suitable.

Does the fitting then go on the front side? When used by two people, one will have the inlet at the back of the neck! The outlet is not enough on the long side. I would also do it in drywall.

It is a single-seater tub. We don’t need any gimmicks with a two-seater. We don’t bathe together. My wife prefers a tub where she can lie comfortably alone, so the faucet goes at the foot end. The drywall construction will then be elaborate and really has to be precisely tailored from the start. I would try to describe how I imagine it, if that’s alright.

[*
Everything is great at the foot end because the tub sits directly against the wall.
[*]One long side is free anyway, there will be a Wedi board with tiles under the rim.
[*]The other long side will now be the challenge:
[LIST]
[*]The tub rim is exactly 35mm high, which corresponds just to a double plasterboard panel and tile, and a waterproofing layer still has to go in.
[*]That means I would make the drywall exactly as wide as the planned shelf.
[*]The drywall must be planned in height exactly up to just under the tub rim (the tub can be fine-adjusted on its feet).
[*]Then double plasterboard goes onto the drywall, which exactly aligns with the drywall.
[*]The wall rail goes onto the drywall track and the tub is placed on top.
[*]The tub is then pulled with anchors basically against the two plasterboard panels.
[*]Tiles on top, fill the joint, done?


[*]At the head end, I would make the drywall somewhat wider than the planned shelf so that in that case the tub sits on the drywall with sound insulation strips (it is already fixed on the long side and foot end) and then the shelf is finished normally with plasterboard and tiles.

Does that work? It really is millimeter work on the long side, especially the height has to be right and the plasterboard needs to be flush with the drywall to basically form the wall against which the anchors are set.