Air-to-water heat pump - Nest Thermostat

There are sample letters on the internet - just try googling.

Or simply don't do it - which of course is forbidden.

Slight variations in the rooms are also possible; I also have about a 3K spread in the house depending on where the room is located. Simply adjust (or have adjusted) the volume flows.

Silly question again on that. Doesn't an ERR also regulate the volume flow at the distributor? What is the difference then, except that the ERR also consumes some power?

I still find it far too general to avoid ERR altogether without considering the individual case. In particular, the "opponents" argue alternately that the underfloor heating is slow, but then again "faster" (example: adjusting the ERR is not sufficient to adapt the children's room to the weather because it is too short-term, but the weather-controlled control with the only input "current temperature," which is even more short-term, is sufficient for the regulation). My bedroom is also usually a few degrees cooler than my bathroom, which is not a problem in a building envelope. I also do not believe in building damage from this; these perhaps occur with condensing water, but for that, you would need higher humidity or a higher temperature difference. It is certainly true that for more than 60% of single-family homes no ERR is necessary, but one must simply not claim that it is generally wrong. And, if executed correctly (e.g. with a differential pressure controlled pump), it does not throttle anything at all and allows the hydraulic balancing to continue working, so that no disadvantage arises.

Silly question again about that. Doesn’t an ERR also regulate the volume flow at the distributor? What is the difference then, except that the ERR consumes some electricity?

No, the "normal ERR" can only do 1 or 0, meaning on or off... nothing is actually regulated... the volume flows are set at the distributor and then the valve is either fully opened or closed by the ERR. A "real" regulation does not take place... the heating just oscillates due to the hysteresis... and in addition to the heating energy it unnecessarily consumes electricity...



Without ERR you have something like this:

Saruss doesn’t really know what he wants now – but a step back? No, rather some attack combined with knowledge acquired from bosy.

Of course, you have a bigger difference between bedroom and bathroom – since you are very likely one of those whose heating system is designed solely for the warmest room, which many companies like to do (the builder’s wish for a cozy bathroom). And if it’s 23-24 degrees there, 19 degrees without ventilation in the bedroom is possible.

And please deal in the next step with a weather-controlled system, how the relationships between heating curve and outside temperature including hysteresis work.

Oh, do you have a differential pressure controlled pump? Hardly... like many others also not.

We are talking here about a single-family house, where one can already generally call it nonsense – purely in terms of efficiency.

No, the "normal ERR" can only be 1 or 0, meaning on or off... nothing is really regulated... the volume flows are set at the manifold and then the valve is either fully opened or closed by the ERR. There is no "real" regulation... the heating simply oscillates due to the hysteresis... and, in addition to the heating energy, unnecessarily consumes electricity...

First of all, thank you for the detailed explanation a few pages earlier, a lot has happened in this thread since then

I think I need to ask our heating engineer tomorrow how exactly the ERRs work now... Because I had understood that the thermostats regulate the volume flow and don't just have an "off" or "on" state. But maybe that was wishful thinking