What foundation is needed for a garden wall?

  • Erstellt am 2024-02-05 10:58:52

WilderSueden

2024-02-05 17:59:43
  • #1

You can get a trench tamper here for 35€ per day. It is certainly better and more ergonomic than such a plate on the demolition hammer. Hand tampers are great for corners and small jobs, but at 10m you won’t have much fun with them anymore.

As a supplement to Philfuel, the individual rows of stones are connected to each other by vertical reinforcement bars. Always vibrate the concrete well, ideally you get one of those vibrating bottles. Alternatively, you can poke with a stick, but with this amount it’s tedious again and not as good. I also wouldn’t underestimate the amount of concrete needed.
 

Allthewayup

2024-02-05 18:17:54
  • #2
Are you primarily concerned with the appearance of the wall or with securing the slope? In the latter case, I would definitely recommend angle stones. It’s faster and easier, provided there is an excavator available.
 

FrankChief

2024-02-06 07:38:49
  • #3


It’s actually only about the look.

The slope now stands on its own and it really isn’t high.

The wall will be (above ground) 60cm high.
Does such a small wall really require such a elaborate foundation? We want to stack 2 rows of stones.

We then want to fill the slope behind the row of stones with soil up to the wall so that it visually creates a second level or a large raised bed.
 

Simon-189

2024-02-06 09:10:39
  • #4
Also keep in mind, whether with shuttering stones or L-stones, that behind the wall appropriate sealing, drainage and its drainage outlet are provided and permeable material is installed. Sooner or later, otherwise, dirt and dirty water will be pushed through the joints. Even L-stones require preparations in the subsoil, probably 50cm of well-compacted gravel is "enough". If the groundwork is not done properly here, individual stones will tip forward later.
 

WilderSueden

2024-02-06 12:30:44
  • #5
Then just make a dry stone wall. It is not so frost-sensitive and can manage with a substructure of 30cm gravel. If you let it lean back and fill it properly from behind, that is enough for support. And you can also skip drainage behind the wall because it is water-permeable
 

FrankChief

2024-02-06 13:42:37
  • #6
What exactly do you mean by dry stone wall?



Do you mean something like this?

We definitely want it to result in a straight wall at the end where you can neatly lay a row of mowing edge stones at the lawn below.
 

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