Wall construction in solid construction method - experiences?

Does this mean that you can do the exterior wall completely without insulation, or do you still use something else like mineral wool, stone wool, or insulating plaster?

Windows, doors, etc. must then probably meet higher standards in order to achieve KfW40 overall? So this variant will probably be more expensive than 24cm + ETICS?!

No, there is no difference. Essentially, windows toward KfW 40 up to passive house standard are actually installed in new buildings. That is already the standard.
Why? Because all professional home builders and investors today already consider KfW 55 outdated; you simply can’t sell such a product to professionals anymore (they are all already looking to the future).

- Costs: no idea, we didn’t compare. Everyone who has worked with them so far has cursed that they simply break faster when cutting, the waste is apparently enormous.
- Processing: Even if the bricklayers handle the bricks with kid gloves, then the electrician/plumber/whoever comes along, chases/drills into the wall and causes the next damage. We looked at some construction sites, it looks bad.
- Moisture: No, unfortunately you’re not done with that. Every vertical edge must be protected from moisture immediately. Window openings must be plastered right away, drill holes sealed, when pouring the floor slabs the edges have to be protected, etc., all doable but prone to problems. If the construction site is nearby and you can visit regularly, you can probably keep it under control.

Here, even the brick manufacturer advised against the “trend” of filled bricks for single-family houses at an informational event.

You really got hit hard on the topic of filled bricks.
The logic of breaking faster and more waste doesn’t make sense to me. The filling has nothing to do with that. The waste from our house fit into a small trailer.
The topic of chasing is purely a planning issue; we also avoided unnecessary connections here. And where that wasn’t possible, Tiroplan chasing plaster was used, which has very good insulating properties.
Except for windows and front doors, there are no other vertical edges, and those have to be smoothed anyway because of the window compression tape. That was done at ours as well.
A bitumen tape went on the top row of bricks before the filigree slabs were placed, and the slabs were poured onto that, so it’s no rocket science.

If stone wool filled bricks get properly wet, I agree that’s problematic, but perlite filled bricks dry completely within a few days because perlite is very open-pored and can release moisture incredibly fast.

The problem is simply that hardly anyone puts in much effort on construction sites anymore, building materials are mostly developed for “more in less time,” and the shortage of skilled workers does the rest.

It is especially nonsense, since filled bricks are rather more stable. The webs are thicker and fewer. Unfilled bricks need more individual air chambers for the same insulation, which is why the webs are thinner and the brick crumbles even more easily. Perlite tends to crumble out sometimes, the builder was probably too lazy to sweep... Mineral wool is a bit problematic when wet.

Hello everyone,

I have two concrete options on how to construct a wall and would like to ask for your expert opinion:

1) Gypsum plaster (20mm), Porit PPW2 (42.5 cm), base plaster (15 mm), and silicone resin plaster (3mm) from inside to outside, U-value 0.18 W/m²K
2) Gypsum plaster (20mm), Poroton T14 (24 cm), NeoWall 032 (18 cm), silicone resin plaster (3mm), U-value 0.13 W/m²K

Which construction would you choose and why? How would you evaluate the properties regarding thermal insulation, indoor climate, and sound insulation? What do you say about the U-value in relation to KfW40?

Thank you!

For which construction would you decide and why? How are the properties regarding thermal insulation, indoor climate, and soundproofing to be evaluated?

Variant 2 due to better thermal insulation. But just so you know - the exterior plaster is more like 10mm. Reinforcement plaster and then finish plaster. I would definitely not use silicone resin, but stay completely mineral-based (with silicate paint). The indoor climate is identical in both variants, probably also the soundproofing. It’s just a standard EIFS variant.

Thank you Are there any alternatives to the standard WDVS? Which types of plaster would be mineral-based? I would prefer a 42 or 50 brick - but that is probably not feasible price-wise.