Towel radiator with underfloor heating - does it get warm?

  • Erstellt am 2020-09-21 20:26:16

Dogma

2020-09-29 15:08:15
  • #1
- I think you misunderstood something here; the controlled residential ventilation is not for heating. The coils only ensure that the incoming air is not too cold, nothing more. Whether there is something more energy-efficient for that, I don’t know, but I did not want electric heating rods in the controlled residential ventilation and I already had water. - The towel dryer may have its own small circuit (e.g. with a heat exchanger), but the mixing valve at least has a magnet attached so that no metal debris gets into the underfloor heating. - About the supply temperature, you misunderstood again; I said the gas boiler produces 45 degrees, not that the underfloor heating runs at 45 degrees. Please read carefully again.
 

Dogma

2020-09-29 15:12:10
  • #2
Why should I forget that? It’s not coming from me; it’s stated in the DIN. The fact is that bathrooms have a higher design temperature than other rooms. For me, 45 degrees actually arrive, and if I don’t want a towel heater, I set the towel thermostat to 0. If yes, then for example to 3.
 

face26

2020-09-29 15:19:07
  • #3


- You heat the cold air using a water heating register, what do you think that is? In a "standard" controlled residential ventilation system, you only need a preheating register so that the system doesn’t freeze. The consumption of that is negligible compared to the investment costs of a water-based pre- and post-heating register. Anything beyond that is a form of heating.

- If your heating produces 45 degrees, then it produces 45 degrees. Maybe I expressed it wrong. Where do you have the 45 degrees? Probably in a buffer tank? Whether you then mix it down to 35 degrees is secondary. You produce 45 degrees that are not necessary. But as I said, with a gas boiler that’s not so dramatic. Still, it could be more efficient, because

- all the additional installation stuff, like water-based bathroom radiators and additional water pre- or post-heating registers, mixers, valves, etc., is simply unnecessary if you plan properly. It only costs installation effort and adds something that can break.

As wrote, better to use a fan heater instead. After 2 minutes of showering, the temperature has already risen by 2 degrees anyway. You can also just turn on the hairdryer briefly.
 

Musketier

2020-09-29 15:33:35
  • #4


Why should that not be possible. You just need the appropriate design and the corresponding supply temperature to reach around 24°C, and you reduce the flow rate for the rest of the rooms according to the desired temperature. Whether that is more energy efficient or if the fan heater/hairdryer etc. makes more sense is another question.
 

Bookstar

2020-09-29 17:09:01
  • #5
Theoretically, that is possible, yes, I agree with you. Practically, this spread is a disaster.
 

Musketier

2020-09-29 17:29:18
  • #6
I somehow define disaster differently. I don’t quite reach 24°, but I want to have between 22 and 23 when showering and when shitting. Even if I were to raise the heating curve by 2° to reach 24°, it wouldn’t be a big deal.

We previously lived in an apartment in a large multi-family house owned by the family. What we blew through the heating oil with the 60cm thick natural stone walls combined with partial vacancy was an energy madness. These current heating costs are just peanuts.
 

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