Khullx1
2018-11-18 04:36:59
- #1
I hope I found the right subforum...
Perhaps a "stupid" question, but I somehow came across the topic of wall plugs because I want to attach a few Ikea Pax to the wall so that they cannot tip over. More out of ignorance, until recently I always just used TOX Tri (mostly 6x36) because my father had them. Since I saw an advertisement for Fischer Duopower, I decided to generally look into the topic, and it made me more uncertain than it helped me.
My general question is how to choose the perfect wall plug, but not in relation to the wall material (I understand it must be suitable for that), but regarding thickness and length. What concerns me the most is what exactly must be deducted from the plug length. For example, in our case it is like this. We have many reinforced concrete walls and a few Ytong (is that Poroton?) walls. The reinforced concrete walls themselves are not really problematic in terms of load capacity... I think the Ytong walls are also not so problematic. However, there is plaster on the walls, for example... I don’t know how thick exactly, but I found something about 1.2 cm nominal thickness. At one spot here where there is a reinforced concrete wall, the plaster is definitely thinner, about 0.5 or 0.6 cm. How should I factor this in when choosing the wall plug? Because the plug also goes into the plaster, but it does not hold there. Do I see it correctly that the holding values from the wall plug manufacturers only apply to plugs embedded directly in the respective material? So without plaster or anything else between the load-bearing material and the plug or the item? That may be unrealistic, but anyway.
For example, a Fischer DuoPower 6x30 with a plaster thickness of 1 - 1.2 cm actually only has about 2/3 or less "hold". Do I therefore also have to deduct the plaster from the plug length, and what exactly does that mean for my choice regarding thickness and especially length?
I attached a PAX to the wall some time ago (Ytong blocks) using the aforementioned TOX Tri 6x36. But when I think about the plaster being there too, the plug is only 2/3 or 3/4 in the Ytong blocks. Subjectively, it holds... but does it really hold? Of course, I have not really pulled on it... would that even be a meaningful test? These are two cabinets (1x 50 cm and 1x 100 cm wide) that are screwed together, and each of the two cabinets has a screw in the top right and left corner in the wall, so effectively there are four screws. The PAX stand on the floor; it is "only" a tip-over protection, but nonetheless, I also want them to stand securely when our child starts to climb. If the TOX Tri 6x36 are not good at all for this application, then I would replace them... although removing them probably does not make the holes for the new plugs any better, right?
Which wall plugs should I use for the remaining PAX for safety? According to the datasheet, Fischer DuoPower carry more load than the TOX Tri... but there too... what should I choose? 6x30 is probably a bit short, especially considering the plaster... but the alternatives would be 6x50, 8x40 or 8x65. The 6x50 carries more than the 8x40 according to the datasheet... for a layman like me, the question is what speaks for and against a 6x50 vs. 8x40? Rather thinner and longer or thicker and shorter? Or just take the 8x65?
But it is also generally about the choice of wall plugs... even when I soon want to hang something really heavy on the wall, like a TV with a swivel bracket. I believe there are completely different forces acting then. What lengths and thicknesses should be used for something like that? And are the TOX Tri or Fischer DuoPower suitable for that too, or do you need something completely different?
Perhaps a "stupid" question, but I somehow came across the topic of wall plugs because I want to attach a few Ikea Pax to the wall so that they cannot tip over. More out of ignorance, until recently I always just used TOX Tri (mostly 6x36) because my father had them. Since I saw an advertisement for Fischer Duopower, I decided to generally look into the topic, and it made me more uncertain than it helped me.
My general question is how to choose the perfect wall plug, but not in relation to the wall material (I understand it must be suitable for that), but regarding thickness and length. What concerns me the most is what exactly must be deducted from the plug length. For example, in our case it is like this. We have many reinforced concrete walls and a few Ytong (is that Poroton?) walls. The reinforced concrete walls themselves are not really problematic in terms of load capacity... I think the Ytong walls are also not so problematic. However, there is plaster on the walls, for example... I don’t know how thick exactly, but I found something about 1.2 cm nominal thickness. At one spot here where there is a reinforced concrete wall, the plaster is definitely thinner, about 0.5 or 0.6 cm. How should I factor this in when choosing the wall plug? Because the plug also goes into the plaster, but it does not hold there. Do I see it correctly that the holding values from the wall plug manufacturers only apply to plugs embedded directly in the respective material? So without plaster or anything else between the load-bearing material and the plug or the item? That may be unrealistic, but anyway.
For example, a Fischer DuoPower 6x30 with a plaster thickness of 1 - 1.2 cm actually only has about 2/3 or less "hold". Do I therefore also have to deduct the plaster from the plug length, and what exactly does that mean for my choice regarding thickness and especially length?
I attached a PAX to the wall some time ago (Ytong blocks) using the aforementioned TOX Tri 6x36. But when I think about the plaster being there too, the plug is only 2/3 or 3/4 in the Ytong blocks. Subjectively, it holds... but does it really hold? Of course, I have not really pulled on it... would that even be a meaningful test? These are two cabinets (1x 50 cm and 1x 100 cm wide) that are screwed together, and each of the two cabinets has a screw in the top right and left corner in the wall, so effectively there are four screws. The PAX stand on the floor; it is "only" a tip-over protection, but nonetheless, I also want them to stand securely when our child starts to climb. If the TOX Tri 6x36 are not good at all for this application, then I would replace them... although removing them probably does not make the holes for the new plugs any better, right?
Which wall plugs should I use for the remaining PAX for safety? According to the datasheet, Fischer DuoPower carry more load than the TOX Tri... but there too... what should I choose? 6x30 is probably a bit short, especially considering the plaster... but the alternatives would be 6x50, 8x40 or 8x65. The 6x50 carries more than the 8x40 according to the datasheet... for a layman like me, the question is what speaks for and against a 6x50 vs. 8x40? Rather thinner and longer or thicker and shorter? Or just take the 8x65?
But it is also generally about the choice of wall plugs... even when I soon want to hang something really heavy on the wall, like a TV with a swivel bracket. I believe there are completely different forces acting then. What lengths and thicknesses should be used for something like that? And are the TOX Tri or Fischer DuoPower suitable for that too, or do you need something completely different?