Is the power consumption and procedure for screed drying normal?

I once searched for floor plans on the internet.


You can still optimize and adjust them. This also works with a two-story building. You can also do without bay windows and cross gables.

Why is he doing that with a heating device and not with the intended heating? Is it not installed yet? Why?

The heating engineer explained it to me like this and left the choice:

Screed - heating device = more electricity consumption

Heat pump = brand new pump is stressed at the limit for a duration of 3-4 weeks with the screed program and is actually not designed for it. He believes that it significantly shortens the service life of the pump. GD

Heat pump = brand new pump is stressed at the limit over a period of 3-4 weeks with the screed program and is actually not designed for this. He believes that this significantly shortens the lifespan of the pump.

Sort of. Of course, if you slavishly stick to the heating protocol and in the end heat up for a long time at 45-50 degrees, you are really demanding a lot from the heat pump. But these temperatures or protocols are from the times when gas heating in deep winter needed these temperatures as the flow temperature. Since you now go into the underfloor heating with a max of 30 degrees, 35 degrees is also enough for functional heating. The idea is to test the screed precisely to withstand the maximum possible flow temperature – and with the heat pump that is no longer 45-50 degrees.

With monoblock it would work differently as well. Not every heating system is as dumb as mine
Or the base for the inside is already poured beforehand.

That’s exactly how it was done for me. A base was poured right at the beginning, then the monoblock was installed on it, and that was used to heat the screed :-)

So, normally this is done with a special screed program and not permanently at 35 °C. It’s probably better for the stresses in the screed, but I’m not an expert either. It will definitely dry this way though. Just watch out for possible cracks and report them immediately.

That you have a sauna for several weeks is perfectly normal. The best thing to do is, as soon as the air is saturated (around 99% humidity), to do a quick airing. We did this 3 times a day back then (before work, after work, and again before going to bed). For our windows, we used a window vacuum cleaner, and for window sills and similar surfaces, old towels. It is important that you hang everything out to dry, otherwise the moisture will just end up back inside the house.

We heated for a total of 4 weeks and then aired for another 4 weeks without heating. Then the house was dry enough to lay the floor and move in.

We also had a mobile heater back then because we had problems with delivery times for our heat pump. We got the electricity meter shortly before the screed drying, and it read just under 3500 kWh when we moved in with 140 sqm of living space. You should therefore expect 6,000-7,000 kWh until moving in for your house size. I recommend you get a cheaper electricity tariff from the usual comparison portals; that way you can save a lot. But it will probably cost around €2,000. You really have a big house, so these costs are normal.

We heated for a total of 4 weeks and then ventilated for another 4 weeks without heating. Then the house was dry enough to lay the floor and move in.

Besides the functional heating (i.e. the "heating up") there is also a drying-out heating as a program