Is aerated concrete strong enough to hold kitchen cabinets?

  • Erstellt am 2023-04-17 19:27:47

geraldo85

2023-04-17 19:27:47
  • #1
Hello, I am planning to build a wall and am considering whether aerated concrete (YTONG) is a good idea. It is about the following - I have a relatively large living room (35 square meters) where the kitchen should also be. However, I want to separate the kitchen with a wall (in yellow on the picture) so that the cooking smells do not go directly into the living room.

In addition, I want to find some kind of "glass solution" (in green on the picture) so that some sunlight comes into the kitchen. For this, I also need a few ideas, because a simple window would look silly.

My question is - is a wall made of aerated concrete good for this? Is it strong enough to hold the upper kitchen cabinets? If yes - how big (wide) must the wall be?

Please excuse my poor German skills and many thanks in advance!
 

hanghaus2023

2023-04-17 20:02:39
  • #2
There is little to say about your draft. The plan of the entire floor should be provided.

There are fastenings for almost every wall. Also for Ytong walls.
 

WilderSueden

2023-04-17 20:23:17
  • #3
Definitely, it's all a question of the anchors. In aerated concrete PP4 (standard for interior walls), even universal anchors hold quite well. However, a drywall or timber frame wall, double-layered and possibly reinforced, would probably be easier than masonry and plastering.
 

Yosan

2023-04-20 12:55:05
  • #4

Yes, with the appropriate anchors that is no problem. There are many houses that are completely built from aerated concrete.
Whether this is the most sensible option for your project, I cannot judge.
 

Stephan—

2023-04-20 14:39:42
  • #5
A work colleague got the Ytong impact tool and said his kitchen cabinets hold with "normal" dowels using it. I didn't know that before either, but it makes sense since the aerated concrete is solidified all around with this tool.
 

xMisterDx

2023-04-20 16:46:34
  • #6
They usually drill 2mm smaller and then tap the pin in. This is done to ensure the hole is exact and not too large.

Whether something gets consolidated. If then just the 1mm that is "displaced."

I’d bet no kitchen installer checks whether the wall is made of PP4, PP2, raw density class 0.5, 0.4, 0.35, or anything else.
They use a plug suitable for aerated concrete and that’s it.
Even our site manager said when I asked, "Don’t get the cheapest at the hardware store, then it fits."
SX, UX, something like that.

The Duopower 10x80 from Fischer can be loaded with 0.3 kN in PP2 aerated concrete. That is the classic thermal insulating exterior wall.
For a kitchen cabinet, better drill 4 holes instead of 2.

If anyone now thinks this Poroton stuff is vastly superior... no. Hollow brick 0.4 kN. 10kg more per hole.

In aerated concrete PP4 it’s already 1.1 kN per 10x80 plug.
 

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