Garden irrigation systems

  • Erstellt am 2016-05-03 10:06:47

f-pNo

2016-05-17 10:19:56
  • #1


Hi
I don’t take it personally. Personally, when I asked the neighbor, I also thought I was "too stupid to put something like this together." When he told me he had the same problem at the beginning, I was already relieved.

As I wrote – I had pushed it in up to the (supposed) stop and then closed the connector. Following his advice, I then pushed further with more force and suddenly it moved another 1 cm. Most of the line runs through a conduit (additional protection against general garden work). Our line was already completely underground (except for the sections planned for separation), then it was cut open and the T-pieces or connectors were inserted in between.
This is meant as a hint for those assembling this for the first time, so they don’t endlessly (like me) search for potential errors, but check this point first if necessary.



However, that wouldn’t work if the cistern is empty and I want to operate the irrigation system alternatively via the faucet. Withdrawal at this point was not planned – it should only be an additional feed-in point. So now we have an even more comfortable solution, which we hadn’t initially expected.
 

Mycraft

2016-05-17 10:24:52
  • #2


Very good idea I have already had to patch twice.



The first resistance is the rubber, of course you have to get over that. Otherwise, the pipe can be pulled out of the connector again without any effort even when it is closed.
 

f-pNo

2016-05-17 12:30:11
  • #3


Only in the last section (8-10 m), which we installed just this year, did I not use conduit. Unfortunately, I only noticed that after I had backfilled everything. Well - only grass is supposed to grow over it anyway.



But I can also manage pulling it out with the connector closed without much effort. It has happened to me 2-3 times in the past.
 

Musketier

2016-05-17 13:48:42
  • #4
How deep is it actually laid?
 

f-pNo

2016-05-17 14:32:28
  • #5
General recommendations are - as usual - 80 cm for frost protection. However, at least where the water outlets or similar are, you have to go up a bit, since the outlets should slightly protrude from the ground (outlet approx. 20 cm deep).

For the first part, we had the conduit installed by our excavation contractor. Excavator with narrow bucket - dig the trench - insert the conduit - backfill. In my opinion, he went about 60-70 cm deep here. We also had the excavation contractor do the work here because he had to overcome the 3 m embankment with the conduit afterwards. But first go under the L-stone (so first dig - conduit - backfill - L-stones on top).
In the upper area, he then also dug the trench to the first target point and laid the conduit.
I created the second section (upper area) with a spade, shovel, pickaxe, and crowbar. Here I was standing about a leg length deep in the trench.
The third section was created by me (with the same tools) in the past few weeks. Depth approx. 50 cm.

Since we are in a region where winter is rather sporadic, this should also be sufficient. My main concern was more that I wouldn’t accidentally hit the cable during work with the spade.
 

Mycraft

2016-05-17 15:19:02
  • #6
for me it is at 30cm, because the pipe is water-free anyway as soon as there is no more pressure. and before winter it is drained as a precaution. so far no problems with frost, rather with garden work
 

Similar topics
26.10.2015Hang securing > overcoming 1.30 m / house in a "ditch"25
10.09.2016Empty conduit from the supply room to the attic 50mm - sufficient14
15.08.2016Civil engineer contradicts structural engineer27
11.04.2021Plan a conduit for Telekom?21
15.05.2019Are the house connections already one meter on the property?16
06.06.2020Pull the cable through the conduit20
04.06.2020Civil engineer proposes deviations from the drainage plan10
01.09.2020Which conduit for LAN cable?32
14.09.2021Civil engineer calculates excavator performance by tons - experiences?21
07.05.2024How to seal a conduit with an underground cable?26

Oben