Flush shower finished and problem with sealing

  • Erstellt am 2017-05-29 06:59:37

abc12345

2017-06-01 10:58:45
  • #1
The page basically stands out into open space. I had also considered the tiles, but the highest point is 2 cm and then slopes down to 0. The installed tiles are porcelain stoneware, but they will probably break or I won't be able to cut them cleanly unfortunately.
 

Tom1607

2017-06-01 11:01:53
  • #2
Just turn the track around and slide the piece that is normally under the tile so that it is under the vinyl, and at the bottom by the tile, make a silicone joint and that's it.
 

abc12345

2017-06-01 11:06:45
  • #3
Is that strong enough? The vinyl at the transition isn’t firm. You know what I mean? I once found a picture of the conversion on my phone and edited it. On the left, the marked area is now the vinyl and towards the wall there is a 2 cm slope that runs down to 0 towards the room.
 

Tom1607

2017-06-01 17:35:55
  • #4
If you glue the rail to the 'wall' with silicone and then make a silicone joint along the bottom at the tile transition, it will hold tight. The only thing then is that the approx. 1mm metal, which is normally embedded in the tile adhesive, will be under your vinyl. I don't know if that is noticeable.
 

Nordlys

2017-06-01 18:52:03
  • #5
Since it is supposed to be permanently watertight, I would spend 20 euros here and get a cartridge of MS Polymer. My home shipyard, and not only mine, even seals hull penetrations underwater with it. Permanently watertight. MS Polymer, brand name Pantera, is hardly available in building materials stores away from the coast, but it is freely available and can be purchased by mail order. Unlike silicone, it is extremely adhesive, even on fingers, paintable, sandable, permanently elastic, and highly water-resistant. Also usable as an adhesive. It cures more slowly than silicone. Give it an extra day. Karsten
 

abc12345

2017-06-02 11:33:53
  • #6
I have now ordered the rail on Amazon and am simply going to try to slide it under the vinyl the opposite way to how you intended. I also found the adhesive on Amazon for 8 euros. Unfortunately, I am not allowed to post links, otherwise I would have done so to check if it is the right one. Would regular construction adhesive possibly also hold here? The other product apparently seems really difficult to work with if you read the reviews.
 

Similar topics
11.01.2014Click vinyl on floor tiles10
11.09.2016Vinyl vs. Lindura, cork print, laminate? (Logoclic Xtreme)51
24.11.2014Cork with print, parquet, linoleum, vinyl, multisense etc. etc.30
20.03.2015Tiles, vinyl, or other types of flooring with underfloor heating?23
07.11.2016Vinyl click or adhesive version?11
25.07.2017Flooring. Laminate, engineered parquet, vinyl? Where is the best place to buy?60
24.07.2017Vinyl: Only glue on underfloor heating?33
07.08.2018Full vinyl vs vinyl with HDF board27
26.02.2018Which flooring - tiles or vinyl in the living/dining area?18
08.03.2018Cheap vs expensive laminate? Sealing on .55 vinyl?15
31.10.2018Which flooring? Tiles, vinyl, or parquet? Tips?23
12.02.2019Installing vinyl or laminate in the kitchen11
10.11.2019Tiles or vinyl in kitchen and hallway19
13.05.2020Self-adhesive vinyl on screed20
01.09.2020Subfloor Preparation Click Vinyl19
19.07.2020Covering for indoor concrete stairs -> wood, vinyl, natural stone?29
06.07.2020Required build height is 12mm, but the desired vinyl has only 4.5mm thickness16
21.07.2020Vinyl installation direction and cutting-off problem11
07.06.2023Remove tiled floor or lay parquet/vinyl on top?48
08.06.2023Can click vinyl also be glued?16

Oben