Controlled residential ventilation (heat recovery) + air well + exhaust hood and "independent" chimney

Hello professionals,

I would like to gather some diverse opinions on the following project (see title).
I have absorbed various forums and sites on the mentioned topics and envision the following solution.

Controlled residential ventilation: (self-installation of flexible ducts, devices, distributors, etc., except commissioning and balancing)
- Flexible ducts (round) 75mm OD with 61 or 63mm ID
- for ground floor on raw concrete floor in insulation under underfloor heating
- for upper floor over precast ceiling, cast in-situ concrete (incl. valves) and have approved by the structural engineer
- exhaust air from bathroom and corridor upper floor via attic (cold roof)
- all supply air valves via floor inlets (incl. 2 connections for flexible duct)
- all exhaust air valves via ceiling valves 125mm (incl. 2 connections for flexible duct)

Supply air for controlled residential ventilation 200mm through floor slab KG from "outside" via air well (just search engines and get inspired)
Exhaust air 200mm through floor slab to outside into a shaft (with slope for condensate and permeable) and at ground level with grid grate

Provide grease extraction under floor slab using 150mm KG and also "ventilate" it into the above-mentioned shaft
Supply chimney with 200mm KG under floor slab with fresh air and connect condensate drain to sewage system

I have calculated the controlled residential ventilation with various tools (Helios, Wolf, Selfio (had it calculated), Vallox, Maico) and come up with the following idea (pressure drop not considered):
In rooms at rest, e.g. bedrooms max. 2m/s, in the rest max. 3m/s
Motto: Better to install one more pipe than have the "noise" later





PS:
Proper supply air, when controlled residential ventilation is stopped because grease extraction is running, must also be accommodated.
I am thinking about installing a Maico and saving enthalpy & EWT or brine heat exchanger through air wells.

I look forward to lively participation, positive or negative.

Good idea or "not hearing the shot"? :)

I have calculated the controlled residential ventilation using all the tools

For what purpose?

What for?

To be able to compare, all are according to DIN....-6, but here and there they still spit out different results in the end. With constant room dimensions.

To be able to compare,

What is that supposed to be good for?

What is that supposed to be good for?

I am not a heating engineer/ventilation technician etc. and I need something as a basis for the dimensioning of the pipe installation. Especially if it is to be done as a DIY project.

Not an expert ;-) and I can’t say anything about the extractor hood, chimney, and sizing, but:

Overall great ideas and excellent planning. The topic of air wells just came up here in the forum ;).
The air well requires a lot of space overall (excavation pit for the air well). It also initially incurs high costs, including excavation and gravel. I don’t know what the air well kit (piping) costs. But in operation, it’s probably the only good "air renewal system." I considered it but our property did (and does) not provide the space in the optimal position – a shame. If possible: do it!

- Flexible pipes (round) 75mm OD with 61 or 63mm ID
-> Great to install, very cheap (about €3/m) and good. That’s how we do it too.

- for ground floor on raw concrete floor in insulation under underfloor heating
-> Provided the matching floor buildup height is given, that works. Crossing with wastewater etc. is difficult due to minimum screed coverage. If all that is considered: great. Better to create a precise installation plan for controlled residential ventilation and sanitation (wastewater) to avoid unpleasant surprises.

- for upper floor above filigree slab to be cast in place concrete (including valves) and approved by the structural engineer
-> O.K.

- Exhaust air from bathroom and hallway upper floor via attic (cold roof)
-> Exhaust air should also stay within the thermal envelope of the house, otherwise condensation problems could arise. Even if you catch/divert the condensate, it still flows through the system. I would be “worried” about mold and would clarify this point again (in the other "shopping center").

- all supply air valves via floor inlets (including 2 connections for flexible pipe)
-> Floor inlets are expensive and can possibly prevent optimal furnishing. Also, most have a stupid (tripping) edge if they are not flush installed (even more expensive). We considered this and discarded it. Try to run these up in a wall and then have the valves come out of the wall. For example, with our valves, only about 14cm wall thickness is required for this.

- all exhaust air valves via ceiling valves 125mm (including 2 connections for flexible pipe)
-> O.K. (also available in nice versions ;-) )