Very low construction height with underfloor heating in old buildings

Insulating the basement ceiling can be done most easily with EPS or PUR/PIR. These can be ordered in various thicknesses and can be cut reasonably well. If the basement ceiling has many irregularities (pipes, etc.), one could also consider a suspended ceiling and blown-in insulation. Or what I thought about: Why not simply spray everything with PU foam. It's certainly not the cheapest option, but that really gives you freedom with tight spots, etc.

If you have a tip on how and with what I should do this best, gladly... :)

As already writes. I would use PUR (2nd choice). That way you lose only a little room height.

Or what I was thinking: Why not just spray everything with PU foam. It’s certainly not the cheapest option, but you are really free with tight spots, etc.

That gets really expensive. Better to glue panels to the ceiling and cut notches for thin pipes and for thick pipes just stuff the areas with mineral wool and glue a second layer of PUR (thickness depending on possibilities) on top. But check all pipes carefully beforehand. You won’t have good access to them later.

Thank you for the tips! Basement ceiling insulation will then probably have to be done soon.

For everyone faced with the same "problem":

The combination Roth nipple plate 14-17 mm EPS DEO 10 + UZIN SC 997 gypsum thin screed allows a build-up height of 50mm plus covering.

My screed installer didn’t have that on his radar either. I found out through my own research and that’s how we are doing it now.

Regards

Hello ,

can you report on it by now? I am facing the same task. Formerly asphalt screed, including finished flooring, I have about 55-60mm as a margin. I will soon get a new front door as well as a terrace door (floor-to-ceiling) and I am not sure how to proceed here. o_O The installation of door and window will be done by craftsmen.

In addition, there is the challenge that the concrete ceiling is not quite level either (built in 1961), whether I should level it with leveling compound (~1cm) or rather use PUR in different thicknesses.

I am skilled at craftsmanship and also have technical understanding, but house construction is not so frequent for me.

Best regards

Hello Schneiwa.

The concrete ceiling was also spot-spackled/leveled in advance on our side. I would recommend that to you as well. Whether you use a staple or studded board afterwards doesn’t matter. Of course, install the doors before the screed. The advantage is that the screed dries quickly and is ready for covering. Overall, it’s all quite expensive...